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- May 31, 2013
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Getting Technical with Alaska Objectives
Aaron Kurland and I began talking about a trip into Denali base camp last summer while climbing in the Cascades. Aaron had already taken two trips to base camp, one for a Denali prep course and another for an attempt on Denali. However, last summer he discovered the joys of technical climbing. We planned a trip to climb some of the steep ice and mixed routes located in the southeast fork of the Kahiltna glacier, and attempt Mt. Hunter’s West Ridge.
When we checked in with the ranger station they told us Hunter was in great shape. The next day we flew on with high hopes. After arriving in base camp a strong low pressure system came in. The first storm day we tried to push a route up the west face of the Radio Control Tower. We had a fun day climbing about 600 feet up a couloir with vertical steps and lots of spindrift coming down.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=a05208103991bfd8d71d22a262798bb4 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=189c46fac86631f795ccd9e1cfe558d1 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=bf961fe4da64b17b24ad8f9a64a54923 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1078f2d3e385e033c554d6ff334ac32b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=91e8a358fc161e49efc38bf924fb5507 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=77bf361e0f597382b9f2866935d1b28d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=32e5c143a6d60e14dbe7023f65ec63a6 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=691ab1ca6019b50ab59ee8498b7ff1b1 1024w)
All photos by Alan Rousseau
Once gaining the top of the couloir the avalanche conditions increased and the upper face was constantly shedding. We had gotten out and swung the tools — it was time to begin rappelling back down to camp. Three snow bollards quickly got us down 210 meters and below the technical difficulties. From here it was just a 30 minute walk back to camp.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=03becd537bd1fd5457c592f8e479f5d3 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f2a3f9d84535dadd758e1a52dcc0ab18 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=300894015a52a846bb93a102fa0bcb1d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=871c2d22751e8a6708d1db2c79b7f639 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f86121370eb0eac2a90ed36585e11c2c 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=3e4d3d4a412d001b4a530e53e9d9bcd8 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=1b47ab9a6510e20cfae0921cd26d000a 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=27e255945f54073820b0dd21d1fffad3 768w)
The next day brought an additional three feet of snow to mid elevations (10,000−14,000 feet). So we were tent bound and logged some solid reading time. The next day was sunny and we headed out on a ski tour. We went down “heartbreak hill” and onto the main body of the lower Kahiltna. From here we headed south for a couple miles to the start of the West Ridge of Hunter. We decided to wait at least a day for the new snow to settle out. That evening on 8 o’clock weather the forecast was clear for the next few days. Since it was already day five, that was our window. The next day was spent in camp packing five days of food and six days of fuel, and mentally preparing to break trail on the entire five-mile West Ridge of Hunter.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=94b5a20f61951ced2327dd04150a08b0 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7f94fc1430fd46da6c10b7a104802a73 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=428d180de50ac061326dd268ae8c46f4 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7d58f264509ba5dea08807e15ae12b41 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=2e9fc572e7d174b2f72a307ca0f31516 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=9baceb0cc0e852460a2564d875a04944 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=06d446af588c59ccebf73b1c92bc8081 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=63fff9557221d70dd9e25b57557bbb72 1024w)
We left camp at 8:30 pm and reached the base of the West Ridge in an hour and ten minutes. From here we left our skis and started booting up the steep heavily crevassed pocket glacier to gain the ridge. Even with the new snow we moved quickly. In two and a half hours we had hit a prominent rock feature known as the Cat Ears, or point 9500. After passing between the two ears, we did two 60 meter rappels that would have to be re-climbed on the descent. We arrived in the 8,700-foot col at 2:30 am. It was now a time of twilight in the Alaska range and the coldest part of the night with ambient air temps of ‑20 F. The next section of ridge looked intimidating and the snow pack was less than inspiring. We decided to dig in at the 8700-foot col and bivy for a few hours. By 4am we had the tent up and nice platform dug. We ate some dinner and promptly passed out.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e193b7cfb98a712325ba44194172327f 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a5f96955f5da330f08aa3f9def43cdcd 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=6e37683bab15c5d0c5216e9d2de3292f 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b247a1fce6619f832a9a8ffe7fadc7be 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=67795e39947bf124e9dff21a9114c4a9 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=e58d439171a152ceb2998ff2b4c4416a 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=45e5a22cecf4d53437361e99fa86e49a 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=2cef3f9444e25825f10d222bf676e419 768w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=48d255f1b38fc4b315164f2b59f9afc7 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=dc2bcc215eb3e0532bd93d6a660447c0 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=01c293ad860abf1f108d697f36e5656e 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a2ce556d3dea21e7d8b08cd7acf72fc9 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=203d98cee3b62a110e5a827b334e3800 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=76d7b1c38bba41d8110e696b34c44d5b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e1bebc0fb8f430004c447b5017e09ad4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=c15b91ee0f58c661c70b6dc03d8388bb 1024w)
At 12 pm we left our platform and had 2 pitches of 55 degree ice. From here we climbed into the first of two bowls that would put us at the top of point 9500. However entering the first bowl we found deep punchy snow conducive to slab avalanches. Soon a big shooting crack came off my feet and shot 150 feet in front of me. Fortunately the slope angle was not yet steep enough to make it pull out. It was however a sign of things to come and forced our retreat.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=58d6d8ff11342982091f2f98f7992897 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=947bd82d7f5f485009396a9f1beb87a5 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=9ff2320566c604cfceb58794f56edf3b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=96cdb4614810ce097127fb82b6c54c42 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=95e9329dac5c4fac57b66803929f6a08 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0b663c6fee77f28d68532548733eaffb 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=37104eccfcb2a2fa8efd4bf163d7d993 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=b2e4c36a6ece49aa4890746333ee548e 1024w)
We climbed back up and over the Cat Ears via two pitches of 5.6, and returned to base camp that evening around 8pm.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9f2551705bc9b6bda0400760d5235b2d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7699e603bffc17ccae41ebf0357a4365 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=aa5aa770a2d025d09bcacf405c532f99 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e596250e4c1dec21c047ab2a4fe0c47b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=bb49797f7de3a1c98e99614db56d7972 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=f037711560e276015901f31c5bc9c19a 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e4e327148b5239f6bdf68f72bcdd29b3 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8e8577a7a75fa2bba19a6ab98475210a 1024w)
The next day was a rest day in camp, we dried out gear, did some avalanche beacon drills, and got packed for the next objective — Bacon and Eggs. Not to be confused with the Ruth Gorge’s famous Ham and Eggs, Bacon and Eggs is a 1,000-foot ice hose on the micro moonflower formation. We had a great 13-hour day encountering difficulites to M4 WI4+/5- over 7 pitches of sustained climbing.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ccb190bb1ca5ffc9ea9cc3f3af6b8861 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=0b557c6a285a6b43ff400bd1ae26ecbe 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=d2c9f783057df7330ba926f8def596d0 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a876402866775f1cdf58853708c8a6b8 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=c7a031fbd8dc718492bd93556937f54a 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=e92f8f8866eda481c5139c6236ce93a9 1004w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=982136953f8b42a8f5a6d3aa3929f9b9 1004w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_8.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5b7dd01473f0b398226f1b453c010e97 1004w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=53f554fb1d2c1d0b083825c26af82651 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4e5d28240a2bca69befb61f091a08ce8 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2a23095096f5ca15b3a05d27dce6c08b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7e9c25ac0e36b2285328e995aadda08d 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=360ca291b6062c482cb6f276b8033b68 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=5910f5dde767decd151bb5ae1cd7d7d1 1153w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e048449a85af804d487af583de3e8ef9 1153w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_9.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ea1d7de1d92240f101628f0148324286 1153w)
With three days remaining in our trip we decided to rest the next day to keep our legs fresh for our final two days of climbing. On our rest day we went over some alternative rappel techniques, and some more advanced rope management tips.
Our 11th day on the glacier was one of the most enjoyable of the trip. We decided to return to our first objective, the West Face of Radio Control Tower. We had not heard of anyone climbing it before, although that is generally par for the course on smaller objectives in Alaska. Our West Face objective offered about 300 meters of climbing which varied from ice to snow and even a wild overhanging hand crack! This route took us approximately 4.5 hours from the shrund to the summit. We descended the standard route and hiked back to our skis. It was a great sunny day, our route provided fun climbing up to M5 and AI3.
Since my return home I have not been able to find any information on this couloir. With its proximity to base camp it is probably safer to call this the first recorded ascent of the “spindrift couloir”!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ad5482550a54b18521bb92b078a662e4 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=0ac8a3f2a6ef005c5cbd922b56ce30e5 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=0aa3ad59b6021ed7d90c916c0de77150 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=53276eb40cbeabf2d65b53d65ae5441b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=8306469380a7ac45dca50be31dc4500e 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=93ae54dd3ab77c08285803525428227f 1133w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4c9bb176c402105542ba4d8f96eb947a 1133w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=12499ccd6c3ab584a570d1a431bf80d3 1133w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=551e7d1c41300c556b35132eb9680342 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=69f13d67d65f7242b716fcbfa9ef48f2 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=8cc42f807d617002e7eeb538640d1050 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=0362e0911276304180fd65a8c49f6c7e 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=31afb511c03641ef4d8b9b0317b5388a 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=deb7a7846e4b20da55c96c4f52a4e96a 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4257f966a5865eb9e6f166504521ca80 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=630790bc6cc92b05ce2819d9ab0717a3 1024w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=96dff457a2a4ea325d94bf6c2d33311d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f74578e2eb70673b821fa9e4ef313005 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=41861245bef863251926027e45fca825 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=d852c4c473114e938e2d9b5f26b3e454 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=68186df05bedd26da3b44b2ddc5820f4 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0314f3dd6596b0f58fd321c37e3f5b79 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a979aa42745e892aec9bc6f953650820 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=265b60ecf8dff949bb800ddaf6207b3d 1024w)
Route on West Face R.C.T. Numbers represents an end to each of the 7 pitches.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=17be8e050f5fcb7b2c16bf419e20733d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=96bd39066d88d854f50057da7936c56e 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=6544d1df53cb78b9f23c33591c68159f 626w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a54a93f8c0ad52a9a068a12f05de590f 626w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ca83cb3ffc0053b536ce3a846b317f9b 626w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=bb382f86a8bd47600c230596a4bef6c5 626w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=715be9170c8f2aa72fe9588525fc735d 626w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=579dc70c4a033840bd05de297df1bf8c 626w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b004d389b9724ef88673b6471481db82 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=97d8c12332fad06f7324056c1a8e8686 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=49cf0f4ebb24257b36cc64cc6550c28f 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=191da1e3f7444b78701b8d2ee28efd51 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=67c5ffab586002362e3329bc9d01ac4c 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=b7b373c1d12851902c1aae0d7308c51f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=2604cac3d89ad895dfe38d9b0360beb1 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=25c1975a1c18a2ba9a6de914296830f7 1024w)
Our final day was spent ice climbing on the Moonflower Buttress.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=8992af0ab1265bbb5a0ea1bf965cdf24 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=14f849852e78aa7722bd1aaf904aa2e4 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=14ed6f7633651381c23f7b22b2a81f53 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c4991f1a6eb2f8d1526eb16e0d0d614d 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=6a6ed0a52639ba62cebfb86c1d673bc7 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=6b26a5f3fcc20767fd09cfeef9741ead 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=38e96ce3583f843c8aa38ef9557c1a51 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=806d4c75c0fc07aa238c707b77c5df98 1024w)
Then we spent the afternoon on a relaxing ski tour enjoying corn snow and blue skies.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=7bb931073901a52888e1a1ba0aa759b9 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=c990be0c86ded93e18c3b3bca6737b68 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=48ce53729f5d8857db39dce9d5a4ad7b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=f3135989a0f89000d756d996255f1549 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=25f0f6dec48946fe176ed475b3f7af1f 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=62effa40f64b294916510835e0654a10 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=23a783271924b595a2212a5a65bdbf0c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fak_16.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a73075480e91cbb3c0ca93848579407b 1024w)
Thanks for a great trip Aaron!
~ MM Guide Alan Rousseau