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- Jul 15, 2013
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From Moscow to Mountains — First Elbrus Trip a Success!
The first Mountain Madness trip Elbrus expedition of the season has come to an end. It was a great trip, a great success and though the journey has come to an end, the memories and friendships will live on.
Guide twins Alan and Dave on the way to the airport. Tino Villanueva photo
Russia is a tricky place to travel. The language, with Cyrillic lettering, and a country that was only open to travel in the 90s makes it feel quite foreign to travelers. Many people also have the preconception that, due to the stereotype of communism, Russia is organized and everybody stands nicely in line. The truth of traveling in Russia is a bit different. Chaotic airports, heavy traffic that forces $100k cars to pass each other in the dirt and mud of the shoulder at highway speeds and aloof service staff are realities of Moscow.
Dave hanging out with a cardboard cutout outside our Belarusian lunch restaurant.
Tino Villanueva photo
Alec and Tino (and a friend) sampling some local swill at the Museum in Izmailovo Kremlin.
Tino Villanueva photo
However, as with most places in the world, life in the mountainous regions is slower, the people are more welcoming and those of us who live for the mountains feel more at peace. We spent about a week living at the high camp known as the Barrels while preparing, acclimatizing and climbing Elbrus. When our possible summit days arrived, and the weather did not look great, we had to remain patient.
The team decided to remain at camp on our first possible day and while other teams ventured into thunder, lightning, snow, rain and wind, receiving a thorough pounding by the weather, we stayed in camp and conserved energy for what we hoped would be a better day. We had the time. It was the right decision.
Ski touring above the Barrels camp with the mighty Ushba in the background.
Tino Villanueva photo
Summit day came and while it was not the electric storm of the night before, the weather was far from perfect. Much of the climb could have taken place anywhere in the world, we would not have known the difference. With a 60m bubble of visibility it is hard to tell where in the world you are. But we pushed on through the difficult conditions with sporadic and taunting views of sun, sky and surrounding mountains.
Dave and the crew within meters from the summit. Tino Villanueva photo
However, the summit was white. I arrived on the summit with Peter and Alec, first amongst our teams, and even though the weather was poor, luckily it was not terribly cold or windy. We waited as long as we could stay warm and then clicked into our skis for a 6000 ft descent from 18,500 ft. But as we were feeling our way through the white we became concerned for the rest of the group. Regrouping at the saddle, we worked well as a team to get everybody back safely to camp. It was a long day, and everybody was tired, but we arrived just in time for a hot meal before falling fast asleep.
Peter and Alec on the summit. Tino Villanueva photo
I do not measure the success of a trip by the number of people who stand on top of the mountain — there are much more important factors such as meeting new lifetime friends, enjoying the company of these friends and returning home safely with great stories. On these criteria our expedition was a success. Still, 12 team members standing on the summit feels pretty great!
~ MM Guide Tino Villanueva