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- Nov 18, 2010
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Forbidden Peak (West Ridge) with Dave Ahrens
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=630928e2f9ba13394344c94f4d466657 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=6d387afc8a088617daf9a35701c7060f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b183c908d52991d11e145c87b26ec046 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7f8947bd813f791a8f4a28b48162265e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=1518781e98e5434aaddf656abd01c19a 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=dbcfc9dc6244abcd584adf760803e91e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=6322fa36a1710370ffd8f55a2bf78f94 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGbnJ0bI%2FAAAAAAAAAdM%2F1jXlxoNdtmQ%2Fs320%2F4a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=1669897c8b49961fd30f9af22e665228 320w)
By Emma Walton and Andrea DeMuro
Touching down in Sea-Tac on a flight in from the UK, I meet Andrea, my climbing buddy. We hug each other excitedly.…then make our confessions: had we prepared enough? hmmm…we both wish we’d done more.…. did we think we were going to make it to the top of Forbidden? honestly, we put it at 50/50.… and, most important, did we promise to stay friends even if one of us wanted to turn back half-way?
The Low-Down
Andrea and I had met as tent-mates the previous year on a climb of Mt Baker and, although I’d since moved to the UK (Andrea lives in Seattle), we’d kept in touch. We had now chosen to attempt the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak for a couple of reasons: it would be quite a challenge as neither of us had previous rock climbing experience, plus it looked like an interesting combination of rock and relatively steep snow (in the couloir leading to the ridge) with potential views from the summit of the mountains we’d previously climbed (being Mt Baker, Mt Rainier and Mt Shuksan). ANDREA: When Emma first proposed the climb saying it was well outside her comfort zone, I replied “it’s double well outside mine!”
We had contacted Mountain Madness (MM) a few months prior to the climb and Andrea had scheduled a rock climbing lesson with Dave Ahrens who was to be our guide, and I had scheduled a few lessons in the UK. In addition to Forbidden Peak, we decided to hit Mazama first to practice rock climbing together before attempting Forbidden.
Day 0
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9c1a78fe2de14fe174f41b4ecfed5315 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=54b082714fcbe09f8c80a885b3eb991b 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=275dcff17a2bfa260fe44d3264d970b1 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=cf05c383b306bc6fa319e87e900cac58 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=5b0f97e864ffb2f635fbfd147068b74f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=189ec63b054b6f450a37653ae2502997 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=7c588a82b1baed8bad30cefd7474b59e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPoKWDlI%2FAAAAAAAAAds%2F5vNPNGXxbl0%2Fs320%2F1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4330a94e9929d0521867b4bd0e0e13f4 320w)
A few days after meeting up, Andrea and I drive to Mountain Madness offices’ for a gear check and I meet our guide, Dave. He talks us through the climb, our gear, and the Leave No Trace principals, gives us a study guide, answers all our questions and concerns and deflects our attempts to force him to forecast the weather.
Day 1 (Rock Training)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=334f31226580a4c0af236d0e19d3dec7 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=8dd504097c40f27f8426e302bbffab9f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=f4c4ace06e658a29b0ec36dbad553dab 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1f77cb856b7c547dac5a51cae46d35d4 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=41b9372e9a0e9908534ced25c2ccb0d2 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=b254da92d043dffd112f070139e98d7f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=569fc53465f3a8091f46a7dbaa166df9 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnOmu-nMI%2FAAAAAAAAAdc%2FRJA1c4VFVE0%2Fs320%2F3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5366f48bc719620ede33b092268774b6 320w)
Andrea’s super strong coffee gives us a hard-core caffeine hit and we we’re psyched for a day of climbing on the Goat Wall in Mazama. With a beautiful backdrop and clear blue skies, Dave shows us how to tie-in and belay, and also teaches us some climbing techniques. Our brains fully understand all of this, but applying it all is somewhat more difficult! We have lots of fun on a sport route and practice climbing together, lowering and rappelling. After a cake and coffee break, we try a route on the Fun Wall until we’re finally rained off.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6674b1f8393d38bac8ccb897be3ed7ff 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=590b795cf405bbac150c81878e12f565 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=a22438229d0ba22fca22f8f6854be5ab 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=babd2ae9e875e7e60d377d77f9b59801 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=532263fcb750c4917c91b3f05f195cdd 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=7cc28d0d3c270ef619144a17dd23714f 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e2e8bb81420dfb652b9d242d949a2a8c 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnPIBPqAI%2FAAAAAAAAAdk%2FHFKXiXse5Zw%2Fs320%2F2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=04b62b4c9438b11d292fd2d2c63a325b 240w)
In the evening, Dave cooks us a great stir-fry, preps us for the following day and assures us that the hike in will be wet, difficult and absolutely miserable!
Day 2 (Hike-in)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=079325987bfc9232134f9e524fc05e63 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=267e5a84ed89c3151a09989287eac7a1 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=cd841d615d60763eb15f17073ed04bec 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=171bb9c7eea14a98174a7c141c73f0bd 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=60f9e305bd0d975b0c5495d9af08909f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=4428b9225b48f90e8a1b0f0a760185a8 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=40486b31b4515cb2504d703732f0be2e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnGCzE7iI%2FAAAAAAAAAdE%2F9SFXz1hHBJY%2Fs320%2F4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=89069ae85efaa08ed35ed43ca390d3c5 320w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=0bf8b4e10471e99d12878e128efef636 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=714d11fb44e54e9adea3e6e8b0899b1a 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=387bf1ac5ddb6befddd4cf463f7a1449 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=84c256856d53d7ca73a8c26bd2157bb4 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b85992b39e77e20b649ff40683da7ddc 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=bf6c44cdd6ebf18f3c6e26dbfbab5627 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=0cf124d7d2182d20ff8c8206d9e16bc7 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFxPeHFI%2FAAAAAAAAAc8%2FS2RNHv4gcsw%2Fs320%2F5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=9c74062571a64ad1c5efc674f7bd8baf 240w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ed5903325b43dfcc7addb2a2ed399c21 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b925e892e7c3206f930b7bf87bf1f69d 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=a12e86ff6d017237e196863c9fecdfdd 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=74a32f18507afaf081ed61aa2242c8fa 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=5d21732bbc1da4bae2676ed71a84677d 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=29d364ab8db8bc6270f67b83cba8af2e 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=d3c69d537ef61b4f687ad85b2903e501 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSmjnFXHwlPI%2FAAAAAAAAAc0%2FO9MchkfcWy0%2Fs320%2F6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=f5d5f9e608d969b4b35429ec9d355a5d 240w)
Much to our delight — and Dave’s relief — the day dawns dry and sunny. Following another of Andrea’s knock-out coffee kicks, we drive to the beginning of the hike-in. It starts off under the northeast face of Mt Johannesburg with its multitude of hanging glaciers, couloirs and glistening glacial waterfalls. The hike, which is only 3 miles, but gains 3000 ft elevation, proceeds to cross several streams and take us through tunnels of undergrowth which seem specifically designed to spike, impale, hang or otherwise inflict bodily harm! ANDREA: Don’t forget about the fresh avalanche shoots soothing our senses with earthly scents dominated by the evergreens.
After an hour or so we get our first glimpse of Forbidden Peak and its every bit as tantalising as I’d imagined. Only rather more so: the couloir looks far steeper than I’d thought it would be, the rock even more jagged and striking.… ANDREA: I’m thinking “couloir” — what that? Wow, that’s a lot of rock!
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Finally we reach Boston Basin at around 5500ft and its so beautiful: wide green meadows full of wildflowers and little marmots lead onto the Quien Sabe Glacier which itself is surrounded by the peaks Mt Torment, Sharkfin Tower, Sahale Peak, Boston Peak, Mt Forbidden and Mt Johannesburg.
The campsite is empty so we pick a great spot and set up our tents. Dave gives us a lesson on anchors, glaciers, walking and climbing in snow and ice and then cooks a big pasta dinner (supplemented by my favourite cookies, hot choccy and mini-marshmallows) and we go to bed early. Of course I can’t sleep and so get up to watch the final embers of sunlight turn cold over Forbidden.
ANDREA: I couldn’t sleep either, but I wasn’t moving, I was meditating.
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Day 3 (Climb)
Dave wakes us with hot oatmeal and coffee around 3:30am and we get going around 4:30am.
This is one of my favourite moments: each of us climbing silently, turning every now and again to watch the alpenglow light up the faces of the surrounding peaks. There is no wind and the sun slowly rises into the most sublime of summer day.
We put our crampons on, rope-up and leave our trekking poles at the base of the couloir. We ascend the couloir which is steep at around 45 degrees but are helped by the tracks of previous parties. We scramble up a rock tower while Dave belays us from above and soon we climb up and onto the west ridge where an awesome view of the surrounding mountains and Moraine Lake awaits us.
Then we change into our rock shoes and move onto the “notch”. Dave tells us to just climb over it and not look down the thousand ft or so of northwest face, but who could resist taking a peek?
ANDREA: A heightened sense of anxiety starts to rise so at the next big move, I freeze and tell Dave, “I just can’t do it.” Then I tell Emma, “I’m sorry, I think this is as far as I can go.” As promised, she says okay, she assures me most graciously that getting as far as we did was good enough for her. As we speak, Dave is busy manoeuvring his gear and rope, comes back to us, gives us more direction, then turns to me and said, “There’s more than one way to skin a cat, Andrea,” and off we go for the summit.
We continue climbing for a few hours – the ridge is full of flakes and horns and looks as though the entire peak might just suddenly crumble under our feet, but in fact it proves very solid and feels great and secure. Dave cheerfully, patiently and tirelessly belays us, talks through moves where necessary, and always has a wicked smile for us. The exposure is wonderful ANDREA: (scary) and as we work our way higher I keep looking around to see if I can see Mt Baker, where Andrea and I met. ANDREA: What I find as we move forward is the more I move the more I love it, I just don’t like looking down.
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Finally we reach the west summit, pause for a moment and then make the final moves to the true summit at 8,815 ft: it’s a spectacular moment as we can see Eldorado, Glacier, Shuksan, Baker and even Rainier far off in the distance. We almost can’t believe we’ve made it and I’m indescribably happy. ANDREA: Although I am happy, I’m a little shaky and seek to capture forever in my mind the magnificent 360 degree view.
We take a zillion photos and then its time to head back. We downclimb portions and Dave lowers us over others until we are back at the notch again. This time its fun and we jump across. We down climb the couloir and head back to camp in the setting sun. ANDREA: Going down that couloir, all of a sudden, I find myself in a gully. I’m proud I didn’t panic too much and climbed out rather quickly.
I fall asleep smiling.
Day 4 (Hike out)
I awake early and chat to some other climbers who are now camped at the campsite and are getting ready for their climb. I already wish I was going back up. ANDREA: If given the chance, she would have, me, well I had enough climbing for this adventure!
With sadness we pack up and after a final glance at Forbidden, we fight our way back through the undergrowth and down the trail. Back at the car, it’s so good to remove our mountain boots and change. We drive up to Cascade Pass to celebrate with a mix of chips, salsa, oranges and cherries!
ANDREA: Then the rain moved in and we moved on out but not before Emma chides us one more time about letting the rain dictate what we will or will not do.
Vital Stats:
Andrea’s favorite moment: reaching the true summit, I realized I managed to achieve a dream of traversing the ridgeline of mountain. Okay, okay days later it hits, but still a dream come true.
Emma’s favorite moment: stepping out onto the ridgeline, seeing the view and feeling the exposure!
Our favorite mountain meal: close call between the cream cheese, salmon and basil bagel and the rigatoni pasta dinner.
What we like about guide Dave Ahrens? his total dedication in respecting the environment, being prepared and preparing his clients, enabled us to have the courage to meet this challenge head-on and moving us from beginner to more intermediate level climbers. Many thanks Dave!
Oh and are we still friends? Of course! … And planning our next Cascades climb. ANDREA: I recall discussions of climbs on other continents too, so my new goal just might be one climb on each continent with Emma! Dave, we want you there too, so good luck getting your IFMGA status.
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