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- Aug 06, 2014
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Cotopaxi Express
MM client Rick G. sends in his trip report from our July Cotopaxi Express.
The July 12 – 20 ​“Cotopaxi Express” team had a great advenÂture and — thanks to the outÂstandÂing leadÂerÂship of our guide, Nico M. — enjoyed sucÂcess on sumÂmit day. Rick G., from IndiÂana, USA, and Anders B. and KjerÂsÂki F. (both from NorÂway) met at the wonÂderÂfulÂly comÂfortÂable HacienÂda RumiloÂma, in the hills above Quito on SunÂday mornÂing, July 13. That day, we enjoyed an inforÂmaÂtive and scenic tour of the hisÂtoric Old City and its incredÂiÂbly beauÂtiÂful churchÂes, squares, and streets. On MonÂday mornÂing, we met up with Nico, rode up the Quito TeleÂferiÂco (“The SecÂond HighÂest Cable Car in the World), and began our accliÂmaÂtizÂing with a laid-back hike-and-scamÂble up the Rucu PichÂinÂcha (15,696) volcano.
Next, it was a hour or so driÂve to the litÂtle town of El Chaupi where we restÂed in a casuÂal hosÂtel, chatÂted with some othÂer climbers who were also getÂting ready for Cotopaxi, and talked about the next day’s trainÂing hike up to the Nuevos Horizantes refuÂgios, which sits on the sadÂdle (at 15.416) between Illiniza Sur and Illiniza Norte. It was cloudy and windy, and we appreÂciÂatÂed the help we got with our gear from a few horsÂes. Up at the RefuÂgio, there was cloud and verÂglas outÂside, but Nico put togethÂer a great three-course meal and we manÂaged to get a good rest. The next mornÂing, Nico made the call that the conÂdiÂtions on Norte were not good, and so we (and the horsÂes) came back down to El Chaupi and drove over to the Cotopaxi NationÂal Park for a ​“Plan B” trainÂing hike-and-scramÂble on RumiÂnahui (15,459), anothÂer extinct volÂcano. It was still windy — even more so, we could see, on Cotopaxi — but the views of the Park and the paramo were great.
That night, we restÂed up and ate well at anothÂer great place, the ChilcabamÂba Lodge just outÂside the Park, and kept our eyes on Cotopaxi, hopÂing for the wind to die down a bit. The next mornÂing, we were joined by our assisÂtant guide, Juan, had a nice lunch at the HosÂteÂria TamÂbopaxi, and — because the Jose Ribas hut is closed and being rebuilt — found dinÂner and bunks, with sevÂerÂal othÂer climbers, at anothÂer small hosÂtel in the Park. At about 10:00 p.m., we were up and on our way. We agreed that it was a good omen when the cheesy VanilÂla Ice ​“clasÂsic” — ​“Ice, Ice Baby” — came on.
A 45-minute hike up sandy (but pretÂty much frozen) slope brought us and a few dozen othÂer climbers — from QueÂbec, the U.K., and elseÂwhere — to the RefuÂgio. It was windy and cold, but the skies were clear and the stars were stunÂning. We got into our harÂnessÂes, put on our helÂmets, and moved across some rock, and then a frozen snowÂfield, to the start of the glacÂiÂer. At this point, we dividÂed into two groups — KjerÂsti and Anders, the stronger and faster climbers, were with Juan and Rick paired up with Nico.
For the next sevÂerÂal hours, we moved steadiÂly — the first group well ahead of the secÂond — through the wind, took a few breaks, passed a few groups and were passed by some othÂers, and enjoyed the beauÂtiÂful sunÂrise an hour or so from the sumÂmit. The last few hunÂdred feet were probÂaÂbly the steepÂest and most difÂfiÂcult, but it turned out that we had all been well accliÂmaÂtized thanks to Nico and MounÂtain MadÂness and our steady pace allowed us to make good time. The sumÂmit was clear and cold, and the views were all we could have hoped for. Because many of the othÂer climbers had turned around, we had the sumÂmit nearÂly to ourÂselves, but we didÂn’t stay that long. As we startÂed the descent, clouds startÂed to roll in. A few hours latÂer, we were back at the car, and feelÂing great. AnothÂer very restÂful night at the hisÂtoric and enchantÂiÂng HacienÂda La CieneÂga and then it was back to Quito, RumiloÂma, and — the next day — home. We were forÂtuÂnate to enjoy this chalÂlengÂing and rewardÂing advenÂture with great comÂpaÂny, outÂstandÂing guides, and — along the way — new friends.