- Oct 19, 2012
Ama Dablam Expedition Summits Island Peak!
Congratulations to Per and Tulsi for reaching the summit of Island Peak! Per posted a report of their past week on Facebook. Next time we hear from them, they will be coming off the summit of Ama Dablam. Let’s wish them luck and good weather!
Per jumaring on the ice cliff on the Chhukung Glacier. Per Ostberg photo
Tulsi fixing ropes on the 14 meter ice cliff on the Chhukung Glacier. Per Ostberg photo
Trekking in the Khumbu with Ama Dablam in the background. Per Ostberg
“After leaving the relative comfort of Dingboche, we spent two days in Chhukung at 4730 meters. One day was spent climbing on the Chhukung Glacier where Tulsi Gurung found a 14 meter vertical ice cliff at 5280 meters. We scaled the cliff with axes, jumars, with and without backpacks, etc. Four hours of great fun! On the way back to the lodge, we had to once again strip down to our jocks and wade across the thigh deep Imja River which drains the glaciers around Island Peak and surrounding mountains. BRRRR!
Meeting with Lama. Per Ostberg photo
On the way to Island Peak. Per Ostberg photo
Tulsi on the summit of Island Peak. Per Ostberg photo
“After a day of well-deserved rest, we moved up to Island Peak’s Base Camp at 5070 meters. The camp was pretty busy with lots of groups attemping the peak. After a breakfast of Chappati with chocolate and a cheese omelet, we moved up to high camp at 5400 meters in glorious weather: sunshine, light wind and not too cold.
Per’s tent at Island Peak Base Camp. Per Ostberg photo
On the headwall of Island Peak. Per Ostberg photo
Per on the summit!! Per Ostberg photo
“We were woken up with hot tea at 1am, pitch dark outside and a howling wind — where did that come from?? What happened to our still and clear nights? Dressed in warm clothes with all of our gear in our packs, we headed for the summit at 2am. With our crampons on and onto the glacier at 4am towards the ice slope that leads to the summit ridge. By 6:20 am we were on Island Peak’s summit at 6138 meters!! I felt like a beached whale but we managed a couple of pictures before we headed down in the icy wind. We reached Dingboche and the luxury of the Khumbu Resort at 4:30 pm. 13.5 hours after we started our summit climb from high camp! A couple of beers later, i crashed in bed knowing that a rest and washing day waited!
Next up, Ama Dablam in the background! Per Ostberg photo
Another summit shot. Per Ostberg photo
Tulsi gearing up. Per Ostberg photo
“Tomorrow we head up to Ama Dablam’s base camp for the final stage of this expedition which has so far been amazing and very exciting! There is probably no internet access there, so we will be on line again after our Ama Dablam summit attempt!”
~ Per Ostberg
Prayer flags waving in the wind in Somari. Per Ostberg photo