Forbidden Peak Northwest Face

Fred Beck­ey’s ​“Cas­cade Alpine Guide” pret­ty much says it all — call­ing For­bid­den’s North­west Face an ​“excep­tion­al climb of purity…its mixed char­ac­ter requires some gen­uine climb­ing and flex­i­ble alpine skills.” Fred, joined by Ed Coop­er (anoth­er esteemed Cas­ca­di­an climber) made the first ascent in July of 1959 and the route’s renowned sta­tus remains intact to this day. Pre­sent­ing the clas­sic alpine climb­ing dilem­ma — to ​“car­ry-over” with overnight packs, or go light-and-fast from a high bivouac — many con­sid­er this route to be one of the best in an area known for great climbing. 

If you pre­fer a more mixed route, the North­west Face of the North Ridge offers snow/​ice climb­ing up to 50 degrees before reach­ing the North Ridge, where sol­id rock up to about 5.7 is encountered. 

This climb is done on a cus­tom basis.