Mont Blanc / Matterhorn Combo
The Ultimate Pair
If Mont Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps, the Matterhorn is the most recognizable and dramatic. To climb these beautiful mountains is truly a memorable experience. The magnificent scenery and final, exposed summit ridge for Mont Blanc makes it perhaps the finest snow route in the Alps. And the Matterhorn is perhaps the best, most “look what we just climbed,” mountain in the world as you sit in Zermatt in an outdoor café with your feet kicked up, relaxed, with all the creature comforts at your fingertips. Advanced beginner-intermediate level climbers will find these challenging objectives attainable with the proper training and previous experience.
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Trip Perks
Creature comforts after the climb; like a beer, glass of wine, or a cappuccino in an outdoor café, accompanied with a fine cheese or pastry in the distinctly Alps towns of Chamonix and Zermatt. And there just might be some night life that interests you, or comfortable accommodations to relax after your climb and take a well-earned break.
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Description
Mountain Madness has put together a combination of peaks to climb before your ascent of Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, adding to your overall experience in the Alps.
You will begin the acclimatization process and review skills by climbing a 4000 meter peak in the Chamonix area. The ascent of Mont Blanc offers a relatively straight forward, high-altitude climb in a dramatic alpine setting suitable for both advanced-beginner and intermediate climbers with some mountaineering experience. In addition to the outstanding views and rugged terrain, climbers will experience the luxuries of the well-maintained hut system, European culture, and fabulous food. These features make for a genuinely enjoyable climbing experience. Climbers should expect a climb a bit more difficult and noticeably higher than Mount Baker, with some exposure.
Once in Switzerland, climbers will then climb the classic Hornli Ridge on moderate and exposed alpine climbing terrain. From the Hornli Hut we gain 4,000 feet / 1219 meters of elevation before reaching the airy 14,697 foot / 4480 meter summit! This amazing climb requires participants to be in great shape, especially after climbing Mont Blanc.
See below for suggested climbs to complete before attempting this trip.
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Mont Blanc / Matterhorn
from $5,550 – 7 Days / In country
- 1:1 - $6,300 per person
- 2:1 - $5,550 per person
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Price Includes
- IFMGA/UIAGM certified guide
- Group gear
- three nights hut reservation deposits- Mountain Madness makes the reservation for you
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Hotel and hut accommodations/hut fee balances
- Gondola fees
- Meals
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climbs are Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
Unlike most Mountain Madness international trip itineraries, which include travel time to and from your destination, our Alps schedules begin on the first day of service in country.
You will need to stay at a hotel or hostel of your choice during the trip and need to make these arrangements through your travel agent or on your own. Mountain Madness will reserve huts for your climb, but you will be responsible to pay for them upon arrival to the hut.
Mont Blanc / Matterhorn Combo Day by Day
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Day 1
Petite Aiguille Verte
Your Mountain Madness guide will meet at your hotel in Chamonix. In order to acclimatize appropriately, one option will be to climb the Petite Aiguille Verte above Argentière. The route offers a very nice mixed climb with dramatic views of the Les Drus and the Argentière Glacier. Your guide may choose alternative routes based on participants skill level and route/weather conditions. We will spend the night back in Chamonix.
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Day 2
Acclimatization, Skills Review and Alpine Ascents
We spend today further preparing for the climb of Mont Blanc by allowing our bodies to acclimatize to the altitude. If needed, time will be allocated with reviewing basic mountaineering skills. We will select a few routes for preparation for Mont Blanc such as the Cosmiques Ridge or the Midi-Plan Traverse. Return to Chamonix.
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Day 3
Approach Mont Blanc
Today we take the Aiguille du Midi tram enjoying panoramic views of Chamonix & Mont Blanc itself. In just 20 minutes the tram will take us from Chamonix to nearly 4000m. After exiting the tram it’s a relatively short, though technical, walk to the Cosmiques Hut where we will rest & fuel up for our summit attempt.
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Day 4
Summit Mt. Blanc
An alpine start wakes us up around midnight. After some coffee & breakfast our climb begins with a short descent to the Col du Midi before climbing the North Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Once we gain the shoulder/ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul the route traverses over to Col Maudit. From here the traverse continues to Mont Maudit where the route steepens up, culminating with a steep pitch of 40 – 50 degrees. With Mont Blanc now in sight, the route takes us to Col de la Brenva and onto Mur de la Cote, a steep ridge that puts us in position to tackle the lengthy switchbacks to the summit. After a short celebration we’ll retrace our steps back to the hut, and if time permits, descend down to a hotel in Chamonix.
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Day 5
Zermatt
After we make our way back to Chamonix (or after a leisurely morning in town), we will make our way to Zermatt.
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Day 6
Hornli Hut
From Zermatt, we take the gondola to Schwarzsee. A two-three hour hike to 10,696 feet will reward us with breathtaking views of the Alps before we spend the night at the Hornli Hut.
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Day 7
Climb the Matterhorn
Today we will ascend the classic Hornli Ridge route to reach the summit of one of the most photographed mountains in the Alps: the Matterhorn. Dramatic photo opportunities abound as we ascend the exposed ridge involving a 3rd and 4th class rock scramble and some belayed 5th class steps. After negotiating a section of snow and ice, we will reach the summit at 14,687 feet. We will descend back to Zermatt via telepherique.
Note on Itinerary: At times conditions can make this route quite hazardous. If these conditions occur, other options would be Monte Rosa from Zermatt, or the normal route on Grand Paradiso. Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Mont Blanc / Matterhorn Combo
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping bag liner
Blankets and pads provide by the huts
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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8’ of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 8 feet of 6mm cord for prusik loops
Examples:
Sterling
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18' of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 18 feet of 6mm cord for cordalette
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Climbing gloves
A shell system of a fleece liner and waterproof shell that handles cold
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Technical mountaineering boots
Heavyweight and crampon compatible. Plastic boots are an option
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Rock shoes (optional Cham)
Good to keep your options open as the Chamonix valley is surrounded by world class rock routes
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Mont Blanc / Matterhorn
from $5,550
7 Days / In country
- 1:1 - $6,300 per person
- 2:1 - $5,550 per person
Elevation
Mont Blanc — 15,771 feet /4807 m
The Matterhorn — 14,697 ft / 4480 m
Route
Trois Mont (Mont Blanc)
Hornli Ridge (Matterhorn)
Guide Ratio
1:1 For Mont Blanc/Matterhorn Climbs
2:1 For Acclimatization Climbs
Difficulty
Intermediate
Depending on the objective, climbers should be comfortable on steeper snow/ice slopes and/or 5.5-5.7 rock climbing experience. You should have a past climbing experience with proven skills. Certain climbs may require only snow/ice skills, but not require rock skills; and vice-versa.
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