Mount Wilson / El Diente Traverse
Spectacular Ridge Climb on Two Colorado 14’ers
The Mount Wilson — El Diente Traverse is one of Colorado’s great alpine ridge traverses linking two of the highest peaks in the San Miguel Mountains. It’s a great way to tick off both peaks in one trip for those on the quest to climb all of Colorado’s 14’ers. With exquisite exposure, complex route-finding, and engaging climbing this traverse is guaranteed to deliver an unforgettable experience.
-
Description
The route goes up Wilson’s North Face, across the ridge to El Diente making a rappel on the way, around steep gendarmes called the “Organ Pipes,” then on to El Diente’s summit — descent is down its North Couloir.
This is an advanced beginner level climb and no experience is required. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip.
This climb involves the following:
- Backpacking with loads to 40 lbs, if doing a 2 day trip
- Basic rock and snow climbing
- Altitude gain to over 14k and 5,000 feet of vertical over 10+ miles.
- Climbers should be in good physical condition and able to move steadily for a full day
-
Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
-
Mount Wilson El Diente Traverse
from $900 – 2 Days
- 1:1 - $1,250 per person
- 2:1 - $900 per person
-
Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
-
Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Colorado
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
-
Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
While the Mount Wilson to El Diente traverse is high (above 14,000 feet / 4267 meters in places), and exposed, the climbing is not overly technical. This means there is plenty of opportunity to take pause and take in the views, which are superb! This is a big climb for a day trip, so many parties elect to attempt it as an overnighter,
and enjoy a night out in one of the state’s most pristine alpine areas. Or take three days and climb some other routes. If you are after an amazing adventure in the mountains of Colorado, the Mount Wilso, El Diente Traverse could be just what you’re looking for. Call for more details.
Flight Information
Ouray and Telluride are located in the SW corner of the state of Colorado. The nearest airport is approximately 40 miles away in Montrose, CO. If you fly, plan on arriving the day before your course or climb begins. Rental Cars are available at the Montrose airport.
Equipment for Mount Wilson / El Diente Traverse
-
Carrying Gear
-
Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
-
-
Sleeping Gear
-
Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
-
Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
-
-
Climbing Gear
-
Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
-
Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
-
Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
-
Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
-
Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
-
Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
-
Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
-
-
Head and Face
-
Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
-
Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
-
Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
-
Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
-
-
Hands
-
Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
-
Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
-
-
Feet
-
Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
-
Thick socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
-
Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
-
Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
-
Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
-
-
Miscellaneous
-
Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
-
Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
-
Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
-
Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
-
Insect repellent
A must!
-
Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
-
Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
-
Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
-
Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
-
Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
-
Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
-
Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
-
Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
-
Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
-
Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
-
Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
-
Bandana (optional)
lightweight
-
Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
-
Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
-
Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
-
-
Book Trip
Mount Wilson El Diente Traverse
from $900
2 Days
- 1:1 - $1,250 per person
- 2:1 - $900 per person
Elevation
14,246 ft / 4342 m
Route
North Face
Grade
II 5.4
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Climbers should have basic snow and ice-climbing skills and should be comfortable with glacier travel, which includes moving in a rope team, self arrest, and basic crevasse rescue. Basic knowledge and experience would be required for objectives with some rock climbing.
Share
-
Email -
Facebook -
Pinterest -
Twitter