Cutthroat Peak South Buttress
ClimbÂing at WashÂingÂton Pass proÂvides a place of legÂendary beauÂty; a mounÂtaineer’s and rock climber’s parÂadise with jagged peaks that are often snow-covÂered year round, frigid alpine lakes, towÂerÂing granÂite spires, and verÂdant green conifÂerÂous forÂest. Among the more beauÂtiÂful mounÂtains of the Okanogan range CutÂthroat Peak sits above the main road through WashÂingÂton Pass, beckÂonÂing hikÂers and climbers towards its towÂerÂing flanks.
The South ButÂtress route ascends easÂiÂer climbÂing on the sweepÂing wall of granÂite and is broÂken up by secÂtions of modÂerÂate rock that are just chalÂlengÂing enough to be enjoyÂable withÂout being intimÂiÂdatÂing. From the sumÂmit of CutÂthroat Peak there are tremenÂdous views of LibÂerÂty Bell MounÂtain, Whistler MounÂtain, SilÂverÂstar, and Black Peak, among many othÂers in the wild North CasÂcades. A climb of CutÂthroat is not to be missed if you are planÂning a trip to WashÂingÂton Pass!
This trip is done on a cusÂtom basis.
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Description
This is an interÂmeÂdiÂate levÂel climb. SimÂiÂlar and preÂviÂous expeÂriÂence is required.
This climb involves the following:
- PosÂsiÂble steep snow, and exposed alpine rock
- StrenÂuÂous approach
- Climbers should have the abilÂiÂty to folÂlow 5.8 rock with a mediÂum-weight pack and move steadiÂly for 10 – 12 hours
- Climbers should be in excelÂlent physÂiÂcal conÂdiÂtion and very comÂpeÂtent on hardÂer alpine terrain
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: NorÂmalÂly requires sevÂerÂal hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any techÂniÂcal difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the techÂniÂcal porÂtion; any techÂniÂcal difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the techÂniÂcal porÂtion; the hardÂest pitch is usuÂalÂly no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardÂest pitch is usuÂalÂly 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A mulÂti-day excurÂsion with difÂfiÂcult free climbÂing and/​or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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CutÂthroat Peak South Buttress
from $450 – Per Day
- 1:1 - $580 per person
- 2:1 - $450 per person
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Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbÂing equipment
- Guide serÂvices
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Price Does Not Include
- AirÂfare
- TransÂportaÂtion — Clients will be responÂsiÂble for their own and the guide’s(s’) transÂportaÂtion for the trip
- All addiÂtionÂal fees — CampÂing, perÂmit, parkÂing, etc.
- Hotel accomÂmoÂdaÂtions
- RestauÂrant meals
- All perÂsonÂal equipment
- TravÂel insurÂance with trip canÂcelÂlaÂtion, medÂical and evacÂuÂaÂtion policy
- Guide graÂtuÂities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of regÂisÂtraÂtion, which includes a $200 non-refundÂable regÂisÂtraÂtion fee
- BalÂance due 90 days priÂor to departure
- The balÂance can be paid by check, wire transÂfer, ACH or credÂit card with a 3% conÂveÂnience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us or Visit our Custom Trip Page for Pricing
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongÂly recÂomÂmends trip cancellation/​interruption and evacÂuÂaÂtion insurÂance for all trips. Our insurÂance partÂner, RipÂcord, offers comÂpreÂhenÂsive travÂel insurÂance includÂing trip canÂcelÂlaÂtion, as well as rescue/​evacuation poliÂcies and can assist in answerÂing any quesÂtions. In addiÂtion, ParÂticÂiÂpant is expectÂed to have sufÂfiÂcient medÂical insurÂance as preÂscribed by their counÂtry of oriÂgin. ParÂticÂiÂpant underÂstands that MMI does not include any type of insurÂance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to canÂcel your trip or change your itinÂerÂary, MMI must be notiÂfied in writÂing. Your trip will be canÂcelled from the date writÂten notice is received. If propÂer writÂten canÂcelÂlaÂtion notice is not received, amounts paid and reserÂvaÂtions made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundÂable fees may apply for cerÂtain trips in order to secure perÂmits and othÂer serÂvices. MMI must strictÂly adhere to canÂcelÂlaÂtion poliÂcies outÂside MMI’s control.
- Due to the perÂsonÂalÂized serÂvice we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accomÂmoÂdate changes and canÂcelÂlaÂtions, waivÂing cerÂtain fees when feasible.
- CirÂcumÂstances outÂside the conÂtrol of MMI and its partÂners, may require amendÂed cancellation/​refund poliÂcies. Such cirÂcumÂstances may include, but are not limÂitÂed to COVID-19, natÂurÂal disÂasÂters, wildÂfires, terÂrorÂism and so forth.
DomesÂtic Trips/​Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundÂable regÂisÂtraÂtion fee, will be proÂvidÂed 91 days or more before the deparÂture date
- No refunds will be proÂvidÂed 90 days or less before the deparÂture date
Trip Insurance
We strongÂly recÂomÂmend the purÂchase of travÂel canÂcelÂlaÂtion insurÂance to proÂtect you from the unexÂpectÂed. You aren’t likeÂly to think of it now, but peoÂple do get ill, break a bone, have a famÂiÂly emerÂgency or get assigned to a last-minute busiÂness trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emerÂgency resÂcue & evacÂuÂaÂtion can be very expenÂsive.
We also strongÂly urge you to conÂsidÂer resÂcue and evacÂuÂaÂtion insurÂance if your own polÂiÂcy does not proÂvide the covÂerÂage needÂed. SerÂvices availÂable may include, but are not limÂitÂed to, heliÂcopter evacÂuÂaÂtion, medÂical care, etc.
If you choose not to purÂchase insurÂance, you assume full responÂsiÂbilÂiÂty for any expensÂes incurred in the event of a medÂical emerÂgency and/​or evacÂuÂaÂtion, as well as for trip canÂcelÂlaÂtion, interÂrupÂtion, lost lugÂgage, etc. We are not the experts and thereÂfore ask that you please conÂsult our travÂel insurÂance partÂner directÂly with any speÂcifÂic questions.
To proÂtect against lossÂes due to illÂness, acciÂdent, or othÂer unforeÂseen cirÂcumÂstances, MounÂtain MadÂness strongÂly recÂomÂmends the purÂchase of travÂel insurÂance as soon as posÂsiÂble after makÂing a deposit. MounÂtain MadÂness has partÂnered with RedÂpoint ResÂoÂluÂtions as our preÂferred travÂel insurÂance provider. Redpoint’s RipÂcord ResÂcue TravÂel InsurÂance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purÂchase travÂel insurÂance, please click this link RipÂcord ResÂcue TravÂel InsurÂance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. PricÂing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and levÂel of coverage.
CritÂiÂcal benÂeÂfits of RipÂcord ResÂcue TravÂel InsurÂance include:
- A comÂpleteÂly inteÂgratÂed proÂgram with a sinÂgle point of conÂtact for emerÂgency serÂvices, travÂel assisÂtance, and insurÂance claims
- EvacÂuÂaÂtion and resÂcue serÂvices from your point of injury or illÂness to your hosÂpiÂtal of choice
- ComÂpreÂhenÂsive travÂel insurÂance for trip cancellation/​interruption, priÂmaÂry medÂical expense covÂerÂage, bagÂgage loss or delay, emerÂgency acciÂdent and emerÂgency sickÂness medÂical expense, emerÂgency denÂtal, acciÂdenÂtal death and disÂmemÂberÂment, and more
- OptionÂal secuÂriÂty evacÂuÂaÂtion covÂerÂage in case of an unplanned natÂurÂal disÂasÂter or othÂer secuÂriÂty events
- WaivÂer for pre-existÂing conÂdiÂtions (must be purÂchased withÂin 14 days of tour deposit)
- OptionÂal ​“CanÂcel for Any ReaÂson” covÂerÂage (must be purÂchased withÂin 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Cutthroat Peak South Buttress Day by Day
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Day 1
We meet earÂly in the mornÂing. After a quick oriÂenÂtaÂtion and equipÂment check at a local gear shop we driÂve to WashÂingÂton Pass. On the way, it’s posÂsiÂble to stop by DarÂringÂton and climb some of the wonÂderÂful slab routes; or it’s posÂsiÂble to climb in MazaÂma, which lies about a half hour to the east of WashÂingÂton Pass. After the day’s climbÂing we’ll camp for the evening.
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Day 2
We wake earÂly on the secÂond day. After breakÂfast we break down camp, and driÂve to WashÂingÂton Pass. We then hike for 1 ½ — 2 hours to the base of the climb. A climb of the South ButÂtress, includÂing the descent to the trailÂhead, typÂiÂcalÂly takes 9 – 10 hours. After descent we return to Seattle.
Note on ItinÂerÂary: Although we do our very best to folÂlow the schedÂule listÂed, the very nature of climbÂing in an alpine enviÂronÂment requires flexÂiÂbilÂiÂty. This itinÂerÂary is subÂject to change due to inclement weathÂer, unsafe route conÂdiÂtions, and othÂer reaÂsons beyond our control.
Equipment for Cutthroat Peak South Buttress
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Carrying Gear
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Backpack (25-35L)
day pack size (25-35L)
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Mountaineering ice axe (early season - contact for details)
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate (early season - contact for details)
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (7mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Chalk bag (optional)
optional but nice for rock climbs when the temps are warm
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Head and Face
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Sunglasses
Essential eye protection whether in the tropics or by the water. Look for 100% UVA/UVB protection. Consider bringing a spare pair
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Feet
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Lightweight mountaineering boot
waterproof and crampon compatible
Examples:
La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX, Scarpa Charmoz, Salewa Crow GTX
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Rain jacket
basic rain jacket with a hood in case of any inclement weather
Examples:
Marmot pricip, or Gore-Tex type jacket
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Miscellaneous
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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CutÂthroat Peak South Buttress
from $450
Per Day
- 1:1 - $580 per person
- 2:1 - $450 per person
Elevation
8,050 ft / 2454 m
Route
South ButÂtress
Grade
III 5.8
Difficulty
Intermediate
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