Rainier Prep Course
SKILLS REVEIW AND ASCENT OF MOUNT BAKER
Wanna climb Rainier on your own? Are you a little nervous? This course will review the fundamental skills necessary for climbing Mount Rainer without a guide. In a stunning alpine environment like no other, instruction provides abundant training opportunities and culminates with one of the most sought after alpine ascents in the Cascades — Mount Baker. If you are preparing for an independent Mount Rainier climb on routes like the Disappointment Cleaver or the Emmons-Winthrop or wanting to refresh your skills for a guided ascent of Washington states’ highest peak this course has all you need. The course culminates in the application of skills learned toward the ascent of Mount Baker via the Easton Glacier or Coleman- Demming Glacier.
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Course Perks
To be a competent and versatile mountaineer you need to learn a lot of different skills. Not just some of the more complicated things, like crevasse rescue, but the specific nuances of climbing Mount Rainier. Fear not, you’ll walk away from this course with a possible summit of Mount Baker and new skills that will set you up for success on Rainier. This course will give you a solid, hands-on understanding of whether you are ready to climb Rainier with your friends, without a guide; or it will get you ready to go if you join a guide for your ascent.
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Description
The active glaciers, large alpine peaks, and diverse terrain of the North Cascades create an ideal learning environment for this course. Our goal is to develop competent, self-reliant alpine climbers ready to climb one of the iconic routes on Mount Rainier. Our final day of the course is reserved for a summit attempt but if weather dictates this attempt will occur earlier. This course is ideal for any climber with some climbing background who is looking at climbing Mount Rainier via one of the two most popular routes, Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons-Winthrop.
Course Curriculum Includes:
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and navigation
- Team and individual crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios
- Low angle to steep snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
- Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
- Intro to ice climbing and crampon techniques
- Team and individual self arrest techniques
- Belaying and rope management
- Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
- Trip planning using GPS units, Modern phone applications, and altimeters
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
- Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Rainier Prep Course
$1,225 – 4 Days
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Price Includes
- Guide services
- Ground transportation
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Meals while on the mountain
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment including stoves and cook kits
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Rainier Prep Course 2025
- May 23, 2025 — May 26, 2025
- May 30, 2025 — Jun 2, 2025
- Jun 27, 2025 — Jun 30, 2025
- Jul 11, 2025 — Jul 14, 2025
- Aug 8, 2025 — Aug 11, 2025
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Rainier Prep Course 2026
- May 22, 2026 — May 25, 2026
- May 29, 2026 — Jun 1, 2026
- Jun 26, 2026 — Jun 29, 2026
- Jul 10, 2026 — Jul 13, 2026
- Aug 7, 2026 — Aug 10, 2026
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Rainier Prep Course Day by Day
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Day 1
The day starts with an equipment orientation. The instructors will help you filter through your personal gear in order for you to refine your equipment to the necessities. Once departing Seattle the group will head to one of the Mount Baker trailheads, Schreiber Meadows for the Easton glacier or Heliotrope for the Coleman Demming glaciers. This hike is very strenuous and can take from 4 — 6 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) You’ll hike through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en-route to our base camp. After establishing camp, the remainder of the day will focus on the skills necessary for the proper use of an ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, and self arrest. You also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, as well as belay techniques. We then focus on the skills required for safe and efficient glacier travel including roped travel and self-rescue (prussiking) techniques. This includes the means for each team member to correctly tie into the rope including the proper spacing of climbers based on the number of team members. After learning the proper techniques for traveling as a rope team, we then make a short glacial“tour,” enabling us to practice and comprehend the day’s lessons. Discussions late in the day will focus on navigation with the use of GPS devices, phone navigation applications and map and compass.
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Day 2
Our main focus for the day is crevasse rescue. Your group will get more practice placing effective snow anchors and bollards and then learn to equalize them to create“bomber” anchors. You will put them to use as you learn the fundamentals of crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. Your team will perform a number of team rescues and a multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.
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Day 3
This day will further refine your steep snow and ice climbing with an emphasis on French, German and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Later in the day, your guides will lead a discussion on avalanche terrain evaluation and avoidance. That evening, we will make final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.
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Day 4
After a pre-dawn wake-up and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today your group will apply the skills they have been practicing toward the ascent of Mount Baker. Depending on conditions and the pace of your group, it will take five to eight hours to reach the summit. After enjoying the views and a snack, and absorbing your accomplishments, students will navigate and lead their team back to high camp. At the end of the day, we will pack up our gear and head back to Seattle.
Equipment for Rainier Prep Course
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (4)
Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (4)
4 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Prusik Minding Pulley (optional)
for crevasse rescue
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Petzl Micro Traxion
A compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
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Feet
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Nylon shorts (optional)
Quick-drying type for July-Sept trips
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Cooking Gear (Overnight Courses Only)
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Fuel bottles
If you are flying, Mountain Madness can supply liquid fuel and bottles or fuel canisters when stock is available. We ask that local clients come with their own kit
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Backpacking stove
Complete stove and repair kit. Make sure fuel pump is included for liquid full stoves
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Pot grips
You’ll need these to handle your pot when it’s full of boiling water!
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Cooking pot
1.5 liter/qtsminimum, lightweight pot with tight fitting lid and handle. Aluminum or titanium are much lighter than stainless steel -
Bowl
Plastic with 2-3 cup capacity; Tupperware works well
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Spoon
Good quality plastic (i.e. Lexan)
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Mug
Insulated plastic with lid
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Rainier Prep Course
$1,225
4 Days
Elevation
10,781 ft / 3286 m
Route
Easton Glacier or Coleman Deming Glacier on Mount Baker
Client to Guide Ratio
4:1
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
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