North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course
The Alpine Climbing Course with a 4‑Day Leadership Extension
This marquee course is a comprehensive snow, rock, and glacier mountaineering training, set high in the North Cascades Range. This course is designed to empower individuals with the knowledge and judgement necessary to lead small groups in the alpine environment. The final four days are “student led” and include an attempt of one or more technical peaks in the Cascades under the watchful eye of our guides.
This course also provides motivated beginning climbers with the intensive hands-on experience necessary to move competently and efficiently over a wide diversity of climbing terrain. In order to develop a well rounded foundation of climbing experiences, each course includes ascents of glaciated peaks such Mount Shuksan, Mount Baker or Sahale and the alpine granite spires in areas such as Washington Pass, Snoqualmie Pass, and the Mount Stuart Range.
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Course Perks
To be a capable, well-rounded mountaineer you need to learn a lot of different skills. Not just some of the more complicated things, like crevasse rescue, but many others, like what about a basic belay escape if you’re partner takes a lead fall? Fear not, you’ll walk away from this course with some summits and new skills, but also knowing what you don’t know; the latter being something that can help you keep things safe in the mountains, but will also feed your desire to learn more and take on the challenge of climbing as a lifelong pursuit.
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Description
This 12-day course begins with two days of rock climbing instruction in Leavenworth, North Bend, or Mount Erie, before moving to alpine rock area in the Cascade range. Students then focus on the essentials of snow, ice and glacier climbing and summit a glaciated peak. “Student led” objectives will be determined while on the trip based on the mountain conditions and experience of the team members. Completion of this course helps prepare climbers for participation on climbs such as Ama Dablam, Denali, the Polish Glacier Route on Aconcagua and many more challenging ascents in the Cascades and in the greater ranges of the world.
Course curriculum includes:
- Face, crack, and slab rock climbing technique, and multi-pitch alpine rock climbing
- Belay techniques, rappelling, and rope management
- Rock, snow and ice anchor selection, anchor construction, equalization, and use of intermediate protection for lead climbing
- Moderate and steep snow and ice climbing, crampon usage techniques, and proper application of combined skills in a variety of terrain
- Ice axe positioning, self arrest, and balance positioning
- Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Crevasse self-rescue techniques (prussiking) and team crevasse rescue techniques
- Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
- Hazard assessment including: discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
- Discussions will include proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, competent and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course
$3,025 – 12 Days
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Price Includes
- Guide services
- Ground transportation
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Meals while on the mountain
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment including stoves and cook kits
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- Full payment at time of registration by credit card, which includes $200 non-refundable registration fee
Dates
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North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course 2025
- May 11, 2025 — May 22, 2025
- Jun 8, 2025 — Jun 19, 2025
- Jun 22, 2025 — Jul 3, 2025
- Jul 13, 2025 — Jul 24, 2025
- Jul 27, 2025 — Aug 7, 2025
- Aug 10, 2025 — Aug 21, 2025
- Aug 24, 2025 — Sep 4, 2025
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North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course 2026
- May 10, 2026 — May 21, 2026
- Jun 7, 2026 — Jun 18, 2026
- Jun 21, 2026 — Jul 2, 2026
- Jul 12, 2026 — Jul 23, 2026
- Jul 26, 2026 — Aug 6, 2026
- Aug 9, 2026 — Aug 20, 2026
- Aug 23, 2026 — Sep 3, 2026
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
The nature of this course involves traveling to various locations throughout the northern part of Washington State. During this travel time we may stop for restaurant meals, and resupply at grocery stores. Typically, the first 4 days of the ALC is front country camping at campgrounds – please prepare accordingly.
North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course Day by Day
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Day 1
7:00 am orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check we drive to Leavenworth’s sunny Icicle Canyon where our rock climbing instruction begins. We start with a review of your rock climbing equipment, knots, proper belaying techniques and signals required for the day’s top-rope climbing.
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Day 2
The second day will continue with more rock climbing on a diversity of climbs and a review of the previous day’s lessons. Students will receive an introduction to the practice and application of lead climbing. This will include more practice with the placement and evaluation of removable and fixed protection, equalizing anchors, lead climbing strategy, equipment selection and multi-pitch climbing.
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Day 3-4
Depending on the weather conditions and group size, the team will determine the best objective. Opportunities to climb Ingalls Peak, the Tooth, or venture to the Washington Pass area are all excellent venues and offer great introductory multi-pitch alpine rock climbing with a spectacular summits! Eveings will be spent in campgrounds after these one day climbs.
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Day 5
After breakfast we head to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4 – 7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) We trek through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en route to our high camp. After setting up base camp, we perform an equipment review, discuss Leave No Trace camping techniques, and discuss the fragile ecology of the alpine zone. If time allows, we hold a brief snow school covering the use of ice axes and snow climbing techniques.
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Day 6
Following breakfast, we hike to the glacier and continue learning snow-climbing techniques. Proper use of the ice axe, traveling in balance, self belay, and self-arrest will be covered. The afternoon is dedicated to teaching students the essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, knots, spacing of climbers, and rope management. We will also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. Students will get more practice placing pieces of snow protection and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create a “bomber” anchor. Students will then learn the foundation for crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. A multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.
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Day 7
Our groups will move to a high camp where the guides will lead a discussion of glacier camping skills. Day 7 provides students an additional opportunity to practice the crevasse rescue skills they learned the day before in addition to setting up and equalizing anchors in different snow conditions. An introduction to rappelling and steep snow and ice climbing will be presented with an emphasis on French, German, and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Finally, every student will practice self-crevasse rescue (prussiking). That evening, we will make final preparations for our summit attempt.
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Day 8
After an early morning wake-up (1 am) and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today students apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views. After basking in a sense of accomplishment and enjoying a snack, students will navigate and lead the team down to high camp in time for a hot lunch. We break camp and hike to the trailhead and head back to Seattle, arriving late in the evening.
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Day 9-12
The next 4 days are dedicated toward the ascent(s) of one or more alpine peaks in the Cascades. Routes and mountains will be selected based upon students’ ability level, interest, and route conditions. Potential itineraries could take students alpine cragging to the Washington Pass area where we can climb a series of routes on towering granite spires. Ascents of the classic Beckey Route on Liberty Bell (5.6) or the Northwest corner of South Early Winter Spire (5.9) are some of the routes we may choose. Climbers may then head back into the Cascades to tackle another alpine route such as the Fischer Chimneys on Mount Shuksan. This portion of the course allows students to have the opportunity to take a more active leadership role in trip planning, route finding, and climbing strategy.
Course Locations: This course is conducted in several areas of the Cascades. The Glacier School will be held on one of the following major glaciated peaks: Mount Baker, Mount Adams, Eldorado Peak, Mount Shuksan or Mount Daniel. Rock climbing is taught primarily in the Icicle Creek Canyon in Leavenworth or at Mt. Erie, along the Washington coast. Ascents of a variety of peaks in the North Cascades National Park area finish off the course.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Climbing Pack (30L)
30L (2500-3500 cubic inch) with ice tool attachments
Examples:
Black Diamond Speed 30
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Large Duffel (90-125L)
made from water proof nylon
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Rock climbing harness
comfortable and padded
Examples:
Petzl Adjama, Black Diamond Momentum
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Locking carabiners (4)
Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (3)
3 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Prusik Minding Pulley (optional)
for crevasse rescue
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Petzl Micro Traxion
A compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Chalk bag (optional)
optional but nice for rock climbs when the temps are warm
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Approach shoes
hiking shoe with climbing specific sticky rubber (route and season dependent)
Examples:
La Sportiva Boulder X, La Sportiva TX3, Scarpa Crux, Scarpa Gecko, 5.10 Guide Tennie
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Light weight wind shell
thin, light weight, and waterproof or softshell
Examples:
Patagonia Houdini
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Cooking Gear (Overnight Courses Only)
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Mug
Insulated plastic with lid
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Spoon
Good quality plastic (i.e. Lexan)
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Cooking pot
1.5 liter/qtsminimum, lightweight pot with tight fitting lid and handle. Aluminum or titanium are much lighter than stainless steel -
Bowl
Plastic with 2-3 cup capacity; Tupperware works well
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Backpacking stove
Complete stove and repair kit. Make sure fuel pump is included for liquid full stoves
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Pot grips
You’ll need these to handle your pot when it’s full of boiling water!
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Fuel bottles
If you are flying, Mountain Madness can supply liquid fuel and bottles or fuel canisters when stock is available. We ask that local clients come with their own kit
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North Cascades Alpine Leadership Course
$3,025
12 Days
Route
Various objectives
Client to guide ratio
3:1
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
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