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- May 22, 2019
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Outer Space Is One of the Best Climbs in Washington State
Outer Space in Leavenworth is easily one of the best 5.9 climbs in Washington State. It’s such a quality route that it also makes an appearance among Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs. As someone who climbed obsessively from the time he was a teenager right up until the very end at 94, that’s saying something.
The striking fifth pitch is what makes the climb: a perfect hand crack splits the rock 400 feet off the ground with knobby chickenheads to grapple with on either side. The crack on its own would be stellar, but something about the knobby granite lumps — that provide ample foot rests and handholds — bring out your inner child, putting a huge smile on your face as you clamber your way up.
![Outerspaceimage IMG 1216](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=adf891421c9ddc06446d7a2f65768e47 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=5a720a77a7df3100b5077476bbe57058 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=7c552f8091487e713fe0e773ecc190d0 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=fd32e98c1a550ad2b378fd316996c557 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=e945e00897d0f94c15a145e4b9896c16 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=9f918684731d148a12e5b4ea30ecd889 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=7cf9d0d5c71da4beccac8858ea3c5a5d 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=a049ab122d0b0b00d280c562ed42bffc 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=5caed5929fc41c979d65626733c148f6 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=bf1d771a3cb27005f1dfae2fb1d0dd1a 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_1216.f1574720362.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6044&fp-y=0.2481&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=b4d2d7ac8b7b5ac9c3b7f296bbdb9172 200w 166h)
![Outerspaceimage IMG 3681](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=d044cc87cbae14afb538779a66becc7e 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=88f21e79dbf67e04f1020483a13bc9a4 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=21fabf85a967124d4320e1db5ff38b76 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=9b7f81c0b2cf9db7f96ec8b51a734423 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=c6be53039c34f08e19dc8f28a62afb3a 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=e9de291dc073bc63473620531cc71d6d 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=5ecb96ae82543f5878586668521e3924 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=0373798725a8c40a8ccc09b5e681703f 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=ccbd9dcbcf41d5a297d0a37072cb134f 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=469b422afe9b60a31237fe9b3d425f7e 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-IMG_3681.f1558639688.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.46&fp-y=0.2796&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=c409efe4aa84df3cc598d3536fbcc5fa 200w 166h)
But this climb isn’t a one-pitch-wonder. The climbing leading to the “money pitch” and the final pitch after are stellar in their own way.
When fellow Madness guide Amber Smith and I climbed it recently, we chose to climb the first pitch in approach shoes to cross a small patch of snow at the base of the route. The decision was fine and dandy until we got to a few spots requiring delicate, traversing footwork. In those moments, I found myself greatly appreciating the sticky rubber and precision in my normal climbing shoes. Which made me wonder: what the heck did Fred Beckey climb this route in back in 1968 when he nabbed the first ascent?
![Outerspaceimage P6180132](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=fa2c3e6034337786808f2ea948508ce4 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=dfdd94fb9968f73597bdeeac938cc80f 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=540aa070a3d088ef47c1702ae1abd315 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=2c939e8ef664aeb99e60d4bacdc452bf 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=c19c5c3f9cc49c6cdd298dcfdb90c784 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=fd6f81347400b8e72f4e939e74c849fa 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=7252f6be5395c89c318ca791d5acfb13 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=f7186b5896cacf4cae7d1ee33cf604ab 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=1c4c1aea92967b337acc0e27e534c16a 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=46a89fa5d740bde22d7ddadddd035f0f 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180132.f1561756820.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.39&fp-y=0.6904&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=a5717606fc372f706c52139b3f3741b2 200w 166h)
![Outerspaceimage P6180167](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=8a406c78719ddb9e848c0b1d397e20ba 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=24e404eeeee2c549091b9e86c2e97363 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=65d709ebc58b2eb2e0f9b1a103628845 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=3afbd4e814386e585e86c53a2ec90365 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=a60f8976349042d29c52eccbfa9148df 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=4412a3b01427c4879171c29ba9316f53 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=0a5ec2e9f426f2b1d3a7c03b2cc9985d 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=865b7f7563156b78069bdb0e42c7cd4d 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=3fb57c3cfc482ffd510a68cd7c6a3ce9 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=7c738988fa03ff41ecc8fb5cfc93645b 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Places/North-America/Washington-Cascades/Outer-Space/outerspaceimage-P6180167.f1558639687.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=a6beab4578a2387ac144419aa238f1c5 200w 166h)
On the topic of gear: as you climb the route, you climb past a few rusty pitons, much larger than what I’ve seen elsewhere. The idea of hammering in a huge piton compared to the relative ease of placing a cam is enough to make you appreciate modern climbing equipment. I remember coming across one piton in particular that looked like it had been snapped in half and wondering how that happened. (It probably wasn’t a good time for the climber that broke it.) Amber and I decided not to trust any of the old, remnant gear on the route. Mountain Project recommends a sparse double rack, but we decided to bring triples in #1 and #2 size Camalots. We did not regret this decision, given the length of most every pitch on the route. (Don’t forget to bring your .1 cam for the traversing crux pitch!) Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of the pitons. You’ll have to climb the route to see them for yourself!
If you like adventure climbing, you’re going to love this route. This climb really has it all: enough pitches to make for a committing adventure, a diversity of climbing techniques and styles, decent views, and a few stand-out pitches that will stick with you for years to come. And in Amber’s and my case, it’s a route we look forward to returning to. Fred Beckey done good opening this one up. Climb it!