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- Jul 03, 2012
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Mustagh Ata 2012 — China Expedition On Its Way!
The Mountain Madness 2012 Mustagh Ata trip is well underway. Everyone arrived in Kashgar in good form (and, almost as importantly, so did all our luggage). On Day 1 the team went up to Shipton’s Arch, the world’s largest natural arch (big enough to fly a 747 through). A beautiful spot and good for acclimatizing.
(all photos from previous expeditions)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=29ae7e342466dda47c8085b52cdcb4a5 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=0bae2f459b8e8b0a888888eff17f1ab6 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=bf75b2c31a07ca284fad6734bf2cf29d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=07d65d5a00cd5b554b84c0c3c3eb41e2 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=e88a34df30502183fcf4fda61d6d9f7d 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=180ee3a5b6ff0d6a63038a1ed15f6054 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=96ccaedbfdfccd271d80cae2e404956c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0111_0336.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0d0f3e9cbecac52d9cbf4f6d57644d8c 1024w)
Guide Ted Callahan making friends with the locals. Beth Wald photo
Day 2 involved a tour of all the classic sights in Kashgar: the Sunday bazaar, the animal market, Id Kah mosque, the tomb of the Khojas, and the Uyghur old town. The heat of the day was remedied with beers at John’s Café and then a traditional Uyghur dinner – laghman, pilau, mantu, and kebabs. Yesterday we drove four hours through stunning mountain scenery to reach our acclimatization camp, located on the banks of Bash Kol (Head Lake). After pitching camp, Team Madness went for a walk along the bigger nearby lake (Kara Kol – Black Lake) and then had a Chinese feast at a local restaurant.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1eaf9f309be836fe5a0bcd4328850ab6 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2b2d006fa552d5c5bc251e1aca7f184a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=39431fbe061b19091491cbccf00fd033 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=181a6c34a409ee78639048d24806c72a 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7b7abd037936b753cdc9fede94159ef5 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8055f7d2ee65262b960f5f05277ed31d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=7c39316fd292da0f601dbf344ecd8549 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fmustagh_shot_IMG_0705.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=d73e26169f2ab536d57a0456d9917079 1024w)
Mustagh Ata. MM Collection
Today was our last acclimatization day before the push to base camp. While the other teams opted to walk up a nearby hill, the Madness had a more elaborate plan: we arranged to rent four motorbikes from the local Kyrgyz so that we could reach the high summer pastures of the Kyrgyz without spending several hours walking there. Three of us needed drivers but Stuart H, with his Aussie farming background, proved to be an ace driver – so much so that even the normally blasé Kyrgyz were impressed by his skills.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=a57c110ae4c162133f2e3e1000d3bbab 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=8d61b517084808ec747408d0570574ef 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=56c4127d627388b3c7244164c914d418 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=76a155737a0ff075881b85cebe9ce2f9 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=19cd4a15f1b3708dd203b7ca008676c3 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d115ee5166ae60002b1687994a791f2f 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=cc84f3f682423b2f9add508c29b941e4 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1489.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5f6fce85c39e2a667e2e40ea07c7354e 764w)
A local woman making katyk chai tea. MM Collection
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=524c70c25b45f4c2978fc321a870f358 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=5059661633950fdfdc52a58cb8e22f89 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=a56b9bab15a00e03af5aba8db3f5587e 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c28b8ae2420f3821a8eb854efd0a6e49 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=28a5783cf474c82c095d24d129750ac9 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=fcba6cb384fa4a79628f4cfefaa16539 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=097b67d5a5fac31a4345337d0e859c97 764w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIMG_1553.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=94be01cadb4e2a117111deca4648598a 764w)
Felt yurts in the pastures. MM Collection
After an hour we arrived at the 3900 meter summer camp (jailoo), situated among glorious pastoral scenery at the base of Mustagh Ata. A brief repast of katyk chai (black tea with salt and yak milk) and freshly-baked bread followed and then we hiked up to the snowline (4300 meters – the approximate elevation of base camp). We coasted downhill (to conserve gas) to a Kyrgyz lunch (hand-made noodles) in a felt yurt. This afternoon, after a brief rest, we reviewed high altitude medicine and went back to the restaurant at the lake for another Chinese dinner. I had been asked by the local Kyrgyz to do a show-and-tell of my photos and video from Kyrgyz communities in other parts of Central Asia, which proved hugely popular. Another early night to bed under a brilliant firmament complete with Mustagh Ata illuminated by a full moon.
~ MM Guide Ted Callahan
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6d68e74a2b85969362f9b27979d25e6f 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=cbe2615490b077813239a7378f6c8e91 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=8fa8dcdd8bc1c6eeb81ed16d65ab18d2 689w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=fe092c2c1e02e2de275b6298c7762301 689w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=cbddcbeb2ffeeb0f696a76f73ac464cb 689w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=834071879847b86bba782328b460cb7f 689w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=8de4d9a24a409574e1a5d290bf99c126 689w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2Fafg08_pam0113_0411.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a8668ed7cb7674609213f1f11d94f98a 689w)
Ted’s show-and-tell. Beth Wald photo