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- Aug 14, 2015
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Mount Baker Slow Boat — MM-style
Mountain Madness guides Chris Marshall and Casey Henley led a group up the Squak Glacier on Mt. Baker from July 18 – 21. Although it was only the second half of July, the south side of the mountain was in typical late-season condition with exposed glacial ice, many large open crevasses and tricky route finding.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1fdee3515f26040136d7bf7a2c867fc6 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=d332be3efca3372bcdbb1bfc804e2f2e 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=041b4821e3dde4f97c5cc0def716e207 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=3cac9b29f76db3f9da2cfddfdf47d3b4 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=e8fbf3f1cbca14f895a3365a87a10ba9 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8a27e32420af58b44010412142fe98f2 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=1bf66716162f8df6cec1d289889b27f4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=3a7e119e669db88030af72ab2e737e6e 1024w)
Passing a crevasse as the morning sky lights up. Chris Marshall photo
This trip, offered as a special four day “Slow-Boat” experience, allowed the team to be fueled by gourmet backcountry cuisine and to spend a full day on snow and glacier travel skills and to get adequate rest before a summit attempt. Plus, the guests’ packs were significantly lighter hiking into basecamp since there were two porters on the trip carrying all the group equipment and food! If you’d like to climb Mt. Baker, and do so in a more relaxed and less strenuous trip, the “Slow-Boat” is for you!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=503d3885e13e47bf55afbf6c5e065d4a 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=dc7078543d2ecb70b0ed5bd873c9ecbd 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=ae1bb87ba6edf72a2bb757a95397a50d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=dcf931c2278d18380e9cc66457723645 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=48ba05e1fc389cdbc74ed60b84ee1577 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=2efc5ad83a20b8611adc046ee063d426 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5294cca5b3fe8ba1808648a1f70b841e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=732b2d0a2b6a105e458faa98d8f48558 1024w)
Mount Shuksan on the Approach. Chris Marshall photo
The past winter wasn’t kind to the Pacific Northwest, delivering near-record, low snowfall. The summer has been hotter and sunnier than average too, which is great if you are a beach-goer, but has allowed the glaciers to suffer. Many of the large glaciers on the volcanoes in the PNW are showing late-season conditions in the middle of the summer and are so broken that some of the “standard” routes are impassible.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6363fae304549bb86788d0c70412a019 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=be03e49b2deea9de1145511d93eedc30 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2f372edd9132d340bd21d2e765356cae 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=2befff4475c83472557f6e49314d0a19 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7e9519a12c614994c0912e55fd4bde63 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=38210d2192a5168b49b0d21567821e84 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=c1ecfb6db5b91ad3a824a32efe16f586 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=1dae4210178fcbceef9216edc5f2008e 1024w)
The steep, broken Roman wall in late-season conditions. Chris Marshall photo
That didn’t stop Mountain Madness’ team from attempting a summit on Mt. Baker. We chose to climb the Squak Glacier instead of the Easton. This allows a shorter overall approach, a beautiful base camp at the scenic Crag View, and an excellent location for teaching a snow school and glacier travel class in preparation for a summit bid. A high camp at Crag View shouldn’t be missed; you have stunning views of Mt. Shuksan to the East, and the Coast Mountains and Puget Sound to the West.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9ba17d7c3ead8fb2e762d36edf502989 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b2fa361128215315de0b1acbc5401053 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c54255ee4f4f345ae1d02f6703fbd46c 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c5b0b650a9b701b433489760998f7547 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ba5f209d562f54aad4498f0403b8d4e3 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=fc1c1bfa4780895f8f5d35d06703eef7 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5d0b7047a6087165efe2299811a68ad6 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=30dfaa089286c4b367a5f0d19a907d7d 1024w)
Snow School! Chris Marshall photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=966051d419583c5d9b60cf1c3718b539 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=5228579cde429d2f594858654ab81872 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=656377e705f1946a0a8a3383571b2847 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c398b1b866d6b59f53605340733eadb7 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=a5fbff3af778ed837cf5e28613e006ea 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ad1cf558011bc36765539c19bcb6b228 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4d1c29dc93df8ecd86d2a30ef91a0c7f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall11.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=1332e682139446b3252e47b977bbfb69 1024w)
Practicing self arrests. Chris Marshall photo
Gourmet food on the “Slow-Boat” is a top-priority, ensuring that our guest eat nutritiously and in style. We had carne-asada tacos, complete with guacamole, salsa, and other fixings the first night! Other dinners included pesto pasta topped with wild Alaskan smoked salmon, and a pad-Thai with chicken and a peanut sauce. Sure beats the dinner-in-a-bag that some other guide services offer on their Mt. Baker climb!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ef2c6c9503bcc67936aaf965253ea58e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=92f7dc024c05ed693f68519caa02b5fc 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=7895a2c2d0024b904bc0c031d730c8c4 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e40cc6e0ae91b09178b8ac4ff497f8eb 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=757f0f612893a3795e527a4bec0b1365 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=61781782ed5a29a1fba395dd08a01094 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a27f715e744140cb1c0b87b41b63f3d5 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=10d315243edcfa12265ca46f7caceefa 1024w)
Casey prepares the finishing touches on dinner. Chris Marshall photo
An alpine start brought the rope teams to the Squak Glacier in the dark. The route to the summit was all but straight-forward, involving crossing blue glacial ice, stepping over and winding through crevasses. Almost to the summit, on the final steep slope know as the Roman Wall, Chris’ team found that the bridge over the bergschrund (large crevasse) had collapsed, and had to punch new tracks out of the schrund and onto a steep and icy slope. The traverse back to the east onto of the schrund was steep and exciting. A number of hours after leaving camp, the team was standing on the summit with a blue sky and swirling clouds below! Bravo.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=613f30eb567f74959bb40966e83ec4d9 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=c5dcbfc29710773022c18567851bf8f8 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=33de7e9457c0c3ad5ee2a74475f13757 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b9d7d69db358c7a7751b3a7b1bae9b80 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=cf683fb31c63fc69fea63eeed271a1a0 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=797d950423af7cb8364bcdbbc1b60eb8 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5f48148514d8a029e0426caf5719e9c8 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall21.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=9aff46ba88025cc0e4c9e90f194a789e 1024w)
On the summit! Chris Marshall photo
If you’d like to climb Mt. Baker, and want to do it with a lighter pack, with gourmet food, and a relaxed schedule, come find yourself on the Mountain Madness “Slow-Boat”!
~ MM Guide Chris Marshall
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6d8a0ab73a1ab07391125b0f41422967 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=c73c11e1adb69788ae3a54597a8af509 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e51aa936272f72b9cc5b3ce01a381abe 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=6e755cfa8e451a65d7d44863b918f613 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=1113aa3aefbb0bacf6ed24fc6e268362 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=62fc03d5cb152a36585664b904e1164d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=bbfbf2710b9bfb073766d017ff49db40 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcmarshall19.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=01d0f2991903ee2e42659b7f2bf34548 1024w)
Until next year! Chris Marshall photo