It’s Off-Season, Where Are Your Guides?
Time out from work, guides are busy getting after it on personal trips across the globe. Check out some of the stories of your favorite guides below!
Dave Ahrens checked in from Hawaii with the following note; “Greetings from Kauai where it’s 80 degrees, sunny and I’m still terrible at surfing. I did manage to crawl up the Salathe Wall on El Capitan and had a blast, nothing fast and light about it. Happy and heavy with beer, speakers and great food. We did manage to free a fair amount though. Oh and I passed my AMGA rock aspirant exam and hoping to take the final exam in the spring!
Dave hanging out on a ledge high on El Cap. Dave Ahrens photo
Dave on the Salathe route of El Capitan
“The picture was taken by the guy who runs the El Capitan report website and just hangs out in the valley taking pcitures. It was taken after a lazy morning of coffee making for a late start which gave perfect light onto the El Cap spire where I was standing, trying to get a view of the next pitch. He said it was his best picture of the year and was very disappointed when I took my yellow shirt off after that. Apparently gray is not a hot color for photography!”
~ MM Guide Dave Ahrens
Jumaring high on the route. Dave Ahrens photo
Dave airing out his feet near the top of Yosemite’s El Capitan. Dave Ahrens photo
MM guides Tino Villanueva, Alan Rousseau and Matt Barela are heading out of civilization and getting into a jeep for a 12 hour drive deep into a remote region of the Himalayas. They will be climbing in the Rolwaling Himalaya, a mountainous region that is 5 more days trekking to get to from the end of a terrible road. In their sights are first ascents on waterfall ice and a peak of almost 7000 meters. Stay tuned for updates on the trip. Good luck to them all!
Alan stocking up on quality food for the trip — can’t have too much chocolate pie!
Matt getting ready to take off
After nearly 5 years of effort, the Super Topo Washington Pass guide book, written by MM Guide Ian Nicholson, is now complete and ready for purchase. Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Ian included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. Congrats to Ian for a job well done! Get your own copy and come have Ian sign it at Seattle Bouldering Project on December 6th at 8pm.
Join Ian next summer with our Washington Pass program!
Ossy reached the summit of 8,000-meter peak Manaslu. He fortunately kept out of harm’s way from an avalanche that swept over high camp and left more than ten climbers dead. We were saddened by the others’ loss, but happy for Ossy who persevered and reached the summit safely! He’s off to Everest in 2013! Until then he will be leading the November 29th Antisana Expedition in Ecuador and Aconcagua on January 11. We hope you can join him!
(All photos courtesy of Oswaldo Freire)
Route taken on Manaslu
Ossy at the summit!