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Cultural Lessons on the Everest Base Camp Trek
A couple reports from MM Guide Shayan Rohani who checked in with us last Thursday from the trail to Everest Base Camp and then again after the team reached Base Camp. Check out Shy’s stories below:
(all photos from previous trips)
Thursday May 17, 2012
“After a couple of luxurious days in Namche, including foot reflexology that seemed to cure one person’s stomach ailment, we headed out for Thengboche.
“Thengboche is a lovely village tucked away with one of the oldest practicing monasteries in the Khumbu valley. We attended a Puja ceremony that, while very interesting, one person was disappointed having expected singing llamas not chanting lamas. On our way to Thengboche another member narrowly avoided an attack from an angry yak. We are all more careful around the yaks after that experience. In Thengboche another member was having trouble sleeping because of a resident mouse. Trying to be a helpful guide I asked the lodge owner if she had a mouse trap. She made an awful face and I immediately realized I made a huge cultural mistake. Being Buddhist the mouse was welcome in her lodge and she certainly would never consider using a deadly trap. Peace and harmony to ALL beings she said. It was a good lesson for me.
Yaks carrying loads. Subrata Guha photo
“We continued up the valley skirting Ama Dablam so close you felt like you could touch it. We arrived in Dingboche with a few having some altitude sickness but it seems that after some rest they are getting better. Today we took a hike high above the village to further acclimate. The weather has been great affording outstanding views.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=a15f69ce180d25b75eeeb147a5401c60 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=142d1474771d309f1703dfb2ccd6ad5d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=10dd598654c4e8a698bb6786ad058f5e 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=9125612c4dc6d675f326c358d8e5eac9 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f1d80be6d0d87419e3fa8ce3e315513d 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=f517ab40feab30e720688866a05820b5 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=918028921b6f4fb76488d4a51788799c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSCN4321.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5b552b1e690617e6065145ee3a999e31 1024w)
Ama Dablam. Deana Zabaldo photo
“We have met more Everest climbers heading home. High winds have prevented work high on the mountain. Only half of Camp 4 is in and no rope is fixed above. Rumor has is almost all parties are packing up. We will be interested to see if there are any holdouts when we arrive and inquire what their game plan is. This could be the first season in many with no successful ascents from the Nepal side. Wish us luck, we may not have any contact until we return from BC.
“Till then!
“MM Guide Shayan Rohani”
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1b9b1791e05991c6c9f45e86e2af07ef 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a2f65de0ddbee3aab535e3ee7d0aed67 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=717fdcec15a990d1c7360daa1aa4c8f4 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=84e6893310d6c749ce1b657dd9423cb7 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=96a60fc9af991402fe8a03c19b84d2f3 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=cde173ce357dcf2dec938f979779c0a4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=01f56dba14ee487621306a439731b27f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F5186116488_bc591f9759_b.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=1e48f3772d25b9a0b35f5d70b4a93556 1024w)
Dingboche acclimatization hike gives us great views of Taboche. Deana Zabaldo photo
Wednesday May 23, 2012
“All right! We are back in Namche Bazaar. Our trip has been very eventful since I last wrote. After leaving Dingboche one member decided to turn around due to altitude related illness. Sadly, we continued to Lobuche without him.
“Many of us had a challenging night in Lobuche with the higher altitude becoming more apparent. We continued the next day to Gorek Shep where we had planed to climb Kala Pattar in the afternoon. The weather however wasn’t cooperating so we decided to risk going for it in the morning when the weather is typically more stable. It also meant we would have to link the hike up Kala Pattar and the hike into Base Camp in one day.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9030f5bb5c2050b6680dd9df5870711a 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=fa9c24830b47a30be4ef4445d6942c41 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=704be6a721634884beebdaeab482d191 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=8d868abd1b561e241e26df4793a64b4d 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d618f1528c7776c7675860e747c5b39b 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ff941dcd546dca5912f5a360eefbf631 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=c553856a9e2f7fe8977d6a33cd5071ed 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_0441MR.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4ed0c570d29974a883d6713bc90c3421 1024w)
On the high trail to Lobuche Pass. Subrata Guha photo
“We awoke the next morning to a fresh blanket of snow and more clouds. There was discussion and debate as to whether or not we should go for it with the weather being so lousy. After breakfast we decided to go. We could always turn around if the weather got worse. An hour into the hike it became clear the weather would improve. The clouds began churning and views of mountains and sky began to appear. It turned into a spectacular day with the clouds veiling and unveiling the mountains for fresh perspective over and over. Four hours later we were on the top and feeling successful and fortunate. We still had the descent and then traverse to EBC ahead. This would be easily as much work as the hike to the top. We headed down at 10:30 am and began traversing through moraine from the Pumori glacier. When we arrived at Pumori BC (about half way to EBC) we met our staff and had a great picnic lunch and warmed ourselves in the intense Himalayan sun. We then continued, arriving at Base Camp, exhausted, around 4pm. We had an opportunity to meet some climbers who would be heading up in the a.m. We also found out that around 100 people had summited the day before and at least 4 had lost their lives. We talked passionately exploring what it meant to us and how we felt about the risks associated with climbing the high mountains. After that, we went to bed for some well deserved sleep in our cozy tents and listened to the glacier crack and groan beneath us while avalanches echoed through the valley during the night.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=12e0aa422a0f6bc0d300bfe9579e1597 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=6dd3c51071284b5e2ba1239e4fd602ec 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b975cfd11147d349cfd78ca9ee74f0bd 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=66bd2d53135995d924f61030f6c5acbe 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=08319210e7a96b51d08d8424b8e077ca 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=5ac54e395c47d3878ae27f78cedf0810 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=1fbb4b25e15c9273d1a4e22105c4400e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030121a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4e7466395570696977d75b104d60b070 1024w)
Deana Zabaldo photo
“The next morning we woke to perfect skies and big views and admired as about 80 climbers scaled their way through the ice fall. We took some parting shots and started off for our trek home. It took a while to warm up and get our groove on but we eventually did and cruised down being drawn by the ever thicker air. We arrived in Periche in the evening and enjoyed another meal and went to bed . We also were reunited with our friend who had descended due to illness.
“We continued the next day an easy half-days walk to Deboche tucked in a truly enchanting rhododendron forest below Ama Dablam. We relaxed and enjoyed our first beers of the trip. Our sick friend gave it one last day to recover but still wasn’t getting better and so the next morning he took a chopper to Kathmandu where he can rest and recover. It was sad to see him leave after all the effort he put in but I think it was the right decision. Good thing for rescue insurance.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=7ac24d8c82e42808225afb30e1cb046a 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=5f6d7f107ce203530605d12bd33a7a28 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=cc2bd95a1adfb417931aeecd1f9c69a8 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=702733cf4dd74742d8eca4786643c4b7 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=173f76525fa96eca697e54918eb0490e 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=3fd64bc6b1cbb624f96c41a3baef5c21 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=aadcb32326fd527918bcae80e9eefa12 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FP1030318a.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=25aa6287ae09f79eb53b6babebc6e744 1024w)
Life at Base Camp. Deana Zabaldo photo
“We strolled down to Namche and it seems we have found our groove, covering ground quickly and treating each other as family. It’s been a great trip and we are all looking forward to our last day’s walk through the lush Sherpa villages in the lower valley. We will spend the night in Lukla tomorrow night and then take the dramatic flight back to Kathmandu for a day and a half of R&R before we fly home.
“Nepal is magic!”