North Early Winter Spire Direct East Buttress
If you’ve been climbing at Washington Pass you most likely always leave wanting more, or if you’ve just been itching to get out there for the first time, and are up for a challenge, you’re in luck. There is certainly a lifetime of climbing in Washington Pass awaiting you. Perhaps the single finest line for intermediate level climbers among the seemingly endless supply of routes, is the Direct East Buttress of North Early Winters Spire.
This trip is done on a custom basis.
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Description
The route follows a striking line up an eastern facing buttress of NEWS, travelling through a series of cracks from fingers to wide, and steep faces all with sublime exposure. The route finishes with an unsurpassable view as you edge your way across a knife edge ridge with over 1,000 feet of exposure on either side! Any experienced Washington
Pass climber worth their salt aspires to one day climb the Direct East Buttress of North Early Winters Spire. You can warm-up in Mazama on multi-pitch sport climbs, knock off some other area moderates, and then jump on the East Buttress — a fulfilling 3 – 4 day outing. What are you waiting for!This is an advanced climb. No previous experience is required.
This climb involves:
- Possible snow on the approach that may require ice axe and crampons, and exposed alpine rock
- Strenuous approach
- Climbers should have the ability to follow 5.9−5.10 rock with a light-weight pack and move steadily for 7 – 9 hours
- Climbers should be in Excellent physical condition and competent in alpine terrain
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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South Early Winter Spire Direct East Buttress
from $450 – Per Day
- 1:1 - $580 per person
- 2:1 - $450 per person
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Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation — Clients will be responsible for their own and the guide’s(s’) transportation for the trip
- All additional fees — Camping, permit, parking, etc.
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us or Visit our Custom Trip Page for Pricing
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
South Early Winter Spire Direct East Buttress Day by Day
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Day 1
We meet early in the morning. After a quick orientation and equipment check at a local gear shop we drive 3 hours and 45 minutes to Washington Pass. On the way, it’s possible to stop by Darrington and climb some of the wonderful slab routes; or it’s possible to climb in Mazama, which lies about a half hour to the east of Washington Pass. After the day’s climbing we’ll camp for the evening.
*A climb of the East Face can be done in a day, however a 2‑day itinerary may be preferred.
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Day 2
We wake up early and drive 40 minutes to the trailhead. We then hike 2 – 3 hours to the base of the climb. A climb of the East Face, including descent, typically takes 7 – 9 hours. We then return to Seattle.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for North Early Winter Spire Direct East Buttress
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Carrying Gear
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Backpack (25-35L)
day pack size (25-35L)
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Climbing Gear
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Rock climbing harness
comfortable and padded
Examples:
Petzl Adjama, Black Diamond Momentum
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (7mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Chalk bag (optional)
optional but nice for rock climbs when the temps are warm
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate (early season - contact for details)
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Mountaineering ice axe (early season - contact for details)
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Sunglasses
Essential eye protection whether in the tropics or by the water. Look for 100% UVA/UVB protection. Consider bringing a spare pair
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Lightweight mountaineering boot
waterproof and crampon compatible
Examples:
La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX, Scarpa Charmoz, Salewa Crow GTX
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Rain jacket
basic rain jacket with a hood in case of any inclement weather
Examples:
Marmot pricip, or Gore-Tex type jacket
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Nylon shorts (optional)
Quick-drying type for July-Sept trips
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Miscellaneous
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Book Trip
South Early Winter Spire Direct East Buttress
from $450
Per Day
- 1:1 - $580 per person
- 2:1 - $450 per person
Elevation
7,807 ft / 2380 m
Route
Northeast Buttress
Grade
IV 5.11 or 5.10 A0
Difficulty
Advanced
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