Picket Range Traverse
The wild thing — remote, committing, and challenging
The Picket Range epitomizes many things that make the North Cascades National Park so special and unique among the great mountain ranges of the world. In his introduction in the Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 3, the legendary Fred Beckey writes: “Because of the rugged terrain, the Picket Range has remained the wildest and most unexplored region in the North Cascades. It is not an area for the wilderness novice. The length of climbs, combined with steep mixed terrain and variable conditions, demand all around competence and fitness.” Train hard and come see what it’s all about.
-
Trip Perks
Ok, we like to think that we don’t climb to brag about our accomplishments, but this trip, like few others, gets you serious bragging rights. Guarded by intense approaches, this trip is not for someone who’s unwilling to earn the rewards the Pickets offer. The payoff, however, is incredible for those willing to do the work.
-
Description
Trips in the Pickets are among the most challenging we offer. Mountain Madness has been successfully operating climbs into this area for a number of years. The philosophy of fast and light alpine climbing has been the main theme of these trips. Getting up into the alpine in the Pickets is a tough piece of work – especially in the northern section which demands a full two day approach. From a central base camp in either the southern or northern parts of the range one or two day objectives can be completed. Depending on interest, we can also attempt a traverse of an area and climb classic peaks on the way. Either way, any trip into the Pickets takes on more of a mini-expedition flavor than most areas in the North Cascades.
There are a variety of climbing objectives and all can be described as Fred Beckey does: steep, mixed and variable. From the Challenger Glacier to Fury’s ultra classic North Buttress; or Inspiration Peak’s West and East Ridges to the Chopping Block; or new routing on the McMillan Spires or in the Terror Basin; all climbing in the Picket Range is alluring, extremely adventurous, and a great reason to hire a guide from Mountain Madness.
This is an advanced-level trip. Similar and previous experience is required.
This involves the following.
- Very strenuous and multi-day approach
- Backpacking with 50 – 60 lb packs
- Glacier travel
- Remoteness
- Steep snow and ice climbing
- Rock climbing to 5.8
- Climbers should have the ability to follow mid-5th class rock with a pack and move steadily for a full day
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and very competent on alpine terrain
-
Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
-
Picket Range Traverse
from $3,600 – 8 Days
- 1:1 - $5,000 per person
- 2:1 - $3,600 per person
-
Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
-
Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation — Clients will be responsible for their own and the guide’s(s’) transportation for the trip
- All additional fees — Camping, permit, parking, etc.
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
-
Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation - Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Picket Range Traverse Day by Day
-
Days 1-2
These two days are scheduled for food planning, gear selection and approaching up Big Beaver Creek.
-
Day 3
Depending on the conditions and skill level, we will review crevasse rescue or attempt our first objective, Mt. Challenger, traversing the Whatcom and Challenger Glaciers, ascending a 5.7 rock pitch to the summit.
-
Days 4-6
Traveling light, we set out early and begin our ascents in the area. Objectives include Inspiration Peak, Chopping Block, and the north face of Mt. Fury. During this time, we will carry all our belongings and be able to set up camp or bivi as conditions dictate. The objective of these days is to cover as much diverse terrain as possible from rock ridges, snow arêtes, and fifty degree ice, to heavily crevassed glaciers. Additionally, students learn to assess and manage objective and subjective hazards, evaluate safe climbing conditions, and learn the role weather plays in this assessment.
-
Days 7-8
Hike out and return to Seattle.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Picket Range Traverse
-
Carrying Gear
-
Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
-
-
Sleeping Gear
-
Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
-
Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
-
-
Climbing Gear
-
Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
-
Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
-
Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
-
Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
-
Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
-
Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
-
Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
-
Belay device (climb dependent)
Call MM equipment staff for details and recommendations
-
-
Head and Face
-
Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
-
Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
-
Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
-
Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
-
-
Hands
-
Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
-
Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
-
-
Feet
-
Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
-
Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
-
Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
-
Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
-
Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
-
-
Upper Body
-
Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
-
Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
-
Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
-
Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
-
Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
-
Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
-
Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
-
Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
-
-
Lower Body
-
Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
-
Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
-
Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
-
-
Miscellaneous
-
Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
-
Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
-
Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
-
Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
-
Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
-
Insect repellent
A must!
-
Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
-
Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
-
Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
-
Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
-
Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
-
Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
-
Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
-
Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
-
Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
-
Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
-
Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
-
Bandana (optional)
lightweight
-
Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
-
Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
-
Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
-
Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
-
-
Book Trip
Picket Range Traverse
from $3,600
8 Days
- 1:1 - $5,000 per person
- 2:1 - $3,600 per person
Elevation
Various
Route
Multiple options to choose from
Grade
II‑V 5.4−5.10
Difficulty
Advanced
Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8+. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.
Share
-
Email -
Facebook -
Pinterest -
Twitter
