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General Information on Aconcagua:

QUALIFICATIONS FOR CLIMBING THE NORMAL ROUTE: This climb is suited for beginning climbers who are in excellent physical condition with basic mountaineering experience. Although the higher altitude, length of climb and more extreme temperatures make this climb more challenging than Mount Kilimanjaro, the actual terrain on the Normal Route is similar, but it may require the use of an ice axe and crampons. Climbers should feel extremely comfortable with the use of these tools. Conditions on Aconcagua change constantly. Often climbers are required to use crampons and ice axes while crossing the Gran Accerro and climbing in the Canaleta on summit day. It is required that you are familiar with the proper use of these tools prior to your trip to Aconcagua.

We also suggest that you have some previous experience on mountains over 10,000 feet. For those without experience at high altitudes it is strongly advised you join us on our Mountaineering Courses in Bolivia or Ecuador where you can learn the skills needed for expedition climbing while in a high mountain setting. For those with some high altitude experience, such as an ascent of Mount Elbrus, Orizaba, or Kilimanjaro, joining Mountain Madness on a mountaineering course or on one of our Classic Summit Climbs in the Cascade and Olympic Mountains is an excellent way to prepare for this trip and polish those skills needed for the climb of Aconcagua. Summit climbs are offered on Glacier Peak, Mount Olympus, Mount Adams, Mount Shuksan, and Mount Baker.

Route: Aconcagua, often referred to as the "Stone Sentinel," is the highest peak in South America and the highest peak in the world outside of Asia-climbing Aconcagua, which rises 4,000 feet above neighboring peaks, is a great way to experience the spectacular Andes of Argentina. All of our equipment is carried to base camp by mules. We follow the philosophy of climb high and sleep low as we establish a series of higher camps while ascending Aconcagua. We have also built in numerous inclement weather days to the schedule to allow more time to attempt the summit climb. These factors enable proper acclimatization and greatly increases our chance for success.

The Normal Route along the Northwest Ridge is a non-technical, yet physically demanding climb that incorporates all the logistics of climbing a big mountain. The ascent does require basic mountaineering skills. Expedition members should be versed in the use of ice axe and crampons and have strong backpacking skills. This is a challenging route for novice and experienced climbers alike and an ideal choice for those with some high altitude, general mountaineering experience such as Kilimanjaro, Mount Elbrus, and the Mexican or Ecuador Volcanoes.Regardless of route choice, it is the high altitude and potentially extreme weather that challenge the climber ascending Aconcagua's slopes. The reward for your dedication and hard work is standing on the summit of the highest point in the Western Hemisphere.

Porter Support: There is an option for porter support to all camps for a about $1000-1200 (Normal Route only). This enables you to carry only the items needed during the day and will increase your chances of success. Please note: you will be responsible for carrying personal gear on summit day.

INCLUDED IN COST:
• Scheduled hotel accommodations, based on double or triple occupancy
• Ground transportation, including transfers from Mendoza airport to hotel
• All meals while on the mountain
• All group climbing and cooking gear
• All scheduled restaurant meals while in Argentina
• Peak permit
• Mules for transport of gear and food to base camp and return

NOT INCLUDED IN COST:
• Airfare
• Personal climbing gear and other equipment and clothing
• All items of a personal nature: phone calls, laundry, room service, etc.
• Medical/Evacuation and Trip Insurance
• Porters
• Staff/Guide gratuities
• Airport transfer for return flight home

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TRAINING SUGGESTIONS: Unless you hire a porter, everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 50-60 lbs. while stocking camps on the mountain.We suggest you begin your training program at least three months prior to departure. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack.

The best training for mountaineering is to carry a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills, stairs, or small mountains. To avoid knee stress while training use full water containers for weight and empty out the water prior to your descent. Supplement this with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus - remember your summit day could be as long as, or longer than, 12 hours at high altitude!

Please call Mountain Madness to discuss your training program to help you prepare for your climb of Aconcagua, or if you have any other questions. Call 1-800-328-5925

The Normal Route is non-technical and follows the scenic Northwest Ridge of Aconcagua. The first recorded ascent of the route was in 1897, although there is some evidence that the ancient Incas climbed very high on the mountain and may have even reached the summit. This route begins at Plaza de Mulas, a vibrant basecamp at the head of the Horcones Valley and utilizes three higher camps to gain the summit. We climb expedition style by acclimatizing while stocking camps before the final summit attempts.

Day 1-2: Overnight flight to Santiago, arriving in Mendoza in the morning or evening of Day 2.

Day 2: Fly from Santiago to Mendoza (2,428'). A Mountain Madness guide will meet you at the airport and escort you to the hotel in Mendoza. Exploring the charming city of Mendoza, in the heart of wine country, is always a highlight of this trip. This is a good day to wander about the town, enjoy the many parks, sidewalk cafes, delicious local cuisine, and take care of last minute details. Meet at the hotel in the evening for a group dinner and orientation.

Day 3: Leave Mendoza early and arrive at Puente del Inca (8,900') mid afternoon - about four hours driving time. We will spend the night in dormitory style rooms near Puente del Inca. The name Puente del Inca comes from the impressive natural bridge which crosses the Rio de las Cuevas.

Day 4: We drive to the trailhead, just outside of town, and begin our approach to Aconcagua. All of our expedition food and equipment will be carried by mules, enabling us to enjoy this spectacular hike with a light daypack. The trail follows the Horcones River for 5 miles to the junction of the Lower and the Upper Horcones River. After crossing the Lower Horcones on a footbridge, we continue up the river valley towards Confluencia (11,010') where we will set up our camp.
We spend three nights at Confluencia in order to adequately acclimatize.

Day 5: After breakfast, we will day hike to Plaza Francia, which sits beneath the massive 10,000 foot South Face of Aconcagua, one of the world's most difficult alpine climbs. The path climbs gradually up this impressive valley on the lateral moraine of a beautiful glacial tongue flowing from the south face of Aconcagua. This is a great acclimatization hike and offers spectacular views of one of the largest rock and ice faces in the world! We then return to camp at Confluencia.

Day 6: Rest day, with optional 2-3 hour day hike. We have found the extra days at Confluencia provide climbers with proper acclimatization for the move to base camp. Initial acclimatization is critical for success. Overnight at Confluencia.

Day 7: We will complete the hike to our base camp, at Plaza de Mulas (14, 300'), by covering about 14 miles in 7 to 9 hours. Several stream crossings are met during the day and can be made easier if you have brought along a pair of sandals. This is a long and difficult day, but you will enjoy impressive views of Aconcagua, Cerro Cuerno, and the surrounding peaks. Mules carry the majority of the equipment and provisions to base camp.

Day 8: Today is scheduled for rest and acclimatization.

Day 9: Throughout our climb of Aconcagua we follow the philosophy of climb high-sleep low as we ascend the mountain. Today we carry gear up toward Camp Canada or Camp I (16,010'). From our base camp at Plaza de Mulas we follow the trail as it gradually switchbacks up steep scree slopes to the rock spires that mark Canada Camp. We cache food and gear here and then return to base camp. This usually takes 4 to 6 hours round trip.


Day 10: Today is dedicated toward rest, acclimatization and preparation for the summit push.

Day 11: We leave base camp and climb up the scree slopes once again to the pinnacles surrounding the flat promontory of Camp Canada. Hiking time is usually 3 to 5 hours. Next two nights at Camp Canada .

Day 12: Today we complete another carry of gear and food to Camp II or Nido de de Condores (17,500').From Canada we make a long ascending traverse up toward an intermediate camp, Cambio de Penitentes. After a break we continue up towards the saddle between Aconcagua and Cerro Cuerno where Camp II is located. This is a large flat area with some large rocks that provide wind breaks. The view to the south, across a vast scree field called the Gran Acarreo, reveals the famous Canaleta couloir and the summit of Aconcagua.
After making a cache, we descend to Canada for the evening. 5 - 7 hours.


Day 13: After breaking camp, we move our gear and ourselves to Nido de Condores. 3 - 5 hours.

Day 14: Our route from here ascends the subtle crest of the Northwest ridge towards our Camp III or Berlin (19,520').We will again follow the philosophy of carry high and sleep low and cache food and gear at Berlin Camp, then return to Nidode Condores. Trail time 4 to 5 hours.

Day 15: We move to Berlin Camp, our high camp on Aconcagua. The afternoon is dedicated to resting and getting ready for our summit attempt

Days 16-17: Two summit days have been scheduled into the itinerary in case of bad weather at any part of the climb. In addition, day 18 can also be used as an alternate summit day if climbers return to base camp on that day.

Summit Day: From our high camp, the route continues along the Northwest ridge, passing the highest refuge in the world, Refugia Independencia, at 21,476’. From these ruins we continue climbing up and right, crossing the Cresta del Viento (Windy Crest). From here we traverse the upper part of the Gran Acarreo, which leads to the Canaleta; the most famous and challenging part of the Normal Route. The Canaleta is an approximately 30-degree scree gully that rises 1,300 feet and requires great patience and stamina.

Above the Canaleta, you will find yourself on the Cresta del Guanaco, the ridge that joins the lower South Summit to the higher North Summit. We follow the ridge crest to the 22,841-foot true summit, where aluminum cross marks the highest point in the Western Hemisphere! The 360-degree view from the summit is awe-inspiring as you gaze out towards the numerous 20,000-foot peaks of the Andes. Summitting and returning back down to the Berlin Camp usually takes between 9-12 hours.

Day 18: We rapidly descend down the mountain, and marvel at how oxygen rich the air becomes with each 1,000 feet of elevation loss! Return to our base camp, Plaza de Mulas, at 14,300 feet. 4-6 hours.

Day 19: We get an early start and continue our descent as we hike out to Puenta del Inca, 10 to 12 hours. Overnight at the Hosteria. D

Days 20 and 21: Leave in the afternoon of day 20 for Santiago and night flight home.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.