2010 - 2011 Dates:

Option #1:
School & Cayambe (12 days)

November 1-12
December 14-25
January 15-26, 2011
February 5-16, 2011

Option #2:
School, Cayambe & Cotopaxi (15 days)

November 1-15
December 14-28
January 15-29, 2011
February 5-19, 2011

Option #3:
School, Cayambe, Cotopaxi & Chimborazo (19 days);

November 1-19
December 14, 2010-January 1, 2011
January 15-February 2, 2011
February 5-23, 2011

2010-2011 Land Cost:
Option #1: $3,350
Option #2: $3,695
Option #3: $3,975

Rental equipment available- call for details

Client to Guide Ratio
Climbing School: 5:1
Mountain Ascents: 2:1 or 3:1

Testimonials

Five-day Course Curriculum Includes:

• Snow climbing, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
• Self arrest techniques
• Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
• Ice climbing and crampon techniques
• Prussiking and team crevasse rescue practice
• Rappelling and rope management
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
• Navigation using maps, altimeters, and compasses
• Roped glacier travel and route finding through crevassed areas
• Mountain weather, alpine ecology, hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace Ethics
• High altitude physiology and other related expeditionary topics
  

Other Trip Highlights:

• Ideal introductory level high altitude mountaineering
• Charming, historic hacienda stays
• Excellent cuisine
• One day ascents from huts
• Fascinating culture and friendly people
• Knowledgeable local and American guides

The mountains of Ecuador’s famous “Avenue of the Volcanoes” offers some of the finest mountaineering objectives in the Andes of South America and is set amid a fascinating cultural backdrop. For those with limited experience, this trip combines abundant learning opportunities with practical application of skills on 18,996 ft. Cayambe. For those with more time the opportunity to climb Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world, and 20,700 ft. Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest peak, offers a complete high altitude expedition experience. This popular course is designed for individuals aspiring to learn the fundamental skills of snow, ice, and glacier climbing. Our goal is to develop safe, self-reliant alpine climbers. With the comprehensive curriculum and some hands on expedition climbing this trip is one of our most rewarding South American adventures.

Option #1:

We begin our adventure in Ecuador with an orientation in Quito (9,400 ft.), the world's second highest capital after La Paz, Bolivia. The city lies in a gently sloping valley beneath peaks rising to 15,000 feet. We spend time exploring Quito and the colorful village of Otavalo, with its wonderful markets displaying handmade goods of the Otavalan Indians. The time spent shopping and additional hikes serves to acclimatize us before we depart to Cayambe. As an added attraction to this wonderful trip we will be staying in charming haciendas and enjoying the fine cuisine Ecuador offers its visitors.

Before the course begins and our ascent of the primary objective, 18,996 foot Cayambe, we acclimatize further with day hikes near Quito and Otovalo. We then journey to Cayambe where accessible glaciers offer an ideal learning environment. After four days of intensive instruction we climb this beautiful peak.

Option #2:

For those that continue with the extensions, the next climbing objective is the world's highest active volcano, Cotopaxi. The mountain stands at 19,348 feet in Ecuador's Eastern Cordillera and towers high above an area of altiplano reminiscent of the Scottish moors and three other major peaks, Ruminahui (15,602 feet), Sincholagua (16,360 feet), and Quilindana (16,134 feet). We drive into Cotopaxi National Park, first passing through pine forests and then moving through drier and more open country. You will have the opportunity to see a wide variety of animals, such as wild horses, llamas, and an abundance of bird life. These and many other exciting species of mammals and birds inhabit this ecological zone commonly referred to as the paramo.

From the paramo we will drive to 15,092 feet where we begin our travel by foot. A forty-five minute hike brings us to the Jose Ribas Hut (15,749 ft.) at the base of Cotopaxi. The following day we rest and prepare for our climb.

Leaving in the early morning hours, we begin our summit attempt on non-glaciated snow slopes to reach the glacial platform at 17,000 feet. As the morning progresses, we watch the sun rise over the low clouds that cover the parkland and tropical forests far below. To the north we will be treated to views of the heavily glaciated 18,714 ft. Antisana. After we rope up, we travel over more complex areas of the glacier, crossing snow bridges, skirting large crevasses, and ascending moderate terrain and various short, steep slopes to reach the summit cone. Once at the cone, 35-40 degree snow slopes and a short ridge walk will bring us onto Ecuador's second highest summit. From the summit, you will be awarded with spectacular views of nine major equatorial peaks, the endless Amazon Basin, and Cotopaxi's 1,000 ft. deep, active crater.

Option #3:

After our summit of Cotopaxi and a relaxing night at the Hacienda La Cienega, we will drive south to Chimborazo. The following day we hike up to the Whymper hut to an elevation of 16,405 feet. From here we will be able to attempt the summit of Ecuador's highest peak of 20,703 feet! Chimborazo is a tremendous, five-summitted mountain that rises almost 11,000 feet above the central valley. It is actually the highest point in the world from the center of the earth due to the equatorial bulge. It can be seen from Colombia to the north, from Peru to the south, and from far out in the Pacific Ocean. Chimborazo is a volcanic peak, and its various faces offer many challenges to climbers. Our route, the West Face, is moderately steep and, although the climb on this route is not considered technical, the diversity of climbing techniques used, as well as the peak's great height, make it an incredibly rewarding ascent. You will have a great sense of accomplishment as you stand on top and enjoy the incredible views!

Read more about Ecuador

Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. Meals provided are listed as B,L, and D at the end of each day. You will be responsible for those meals not listed while in towns and cities. All meals in the mountains will be provided.

Included in Cost:

• Scheduled hacienda stays and hotel nights while in towns
• Food while on the mountain
• Park fees
• Group climbing and cooking gear
• Scheduled group restaurant meals
• Hut fees
• Airport transfers
  

Not Included in Cost:

• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Staff/guide gratuities
• Trip and medical evacuation insurance
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Items of a personal nature (phone calls, laundry, room service, etc.)

Day 1: Arrive in Ecuador, orientation in Quito, overnight in Hotel Reina Isabel.

Day 2: City tour, equipment check, and hotel night.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike. Overnight in Quito.

Day 4: Travel to town of Otavalo to visit its colorful markets, afternoon hike to Lake Cuicocha, overnight at Hotel Pinsaqui. 

Day 5: Begin instruction on Cayambe. Overnight at the Hacienda Guachala.

Day 6: Return to Cayambe. After getting situated we hike to the glacier and begin learning snow climbing techniques. Proper use of the ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, and self-arrest will all be covered. The afternoon is dedicated to teaching students the essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, knots, spacing of climbers, and rope management. We will also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. Overnight in the hut for the next four nights.

Day 7: An introduction to rappelling and steep snow and ice climbing will be presented with an emphasis on French, German, and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Every student will also learn and practice self-crevasse rescue (prussiking).

Day 8: Our main focus for today is crevasse rescue. Students will get more practice placing pieces of snow protection and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create a “bomber” anchor. Students will then learn the fundamentals of rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. A variety of scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 9: Today will include instruction in lead climbing on technical ice and an additional opportunity for students to review skills. Overnight at Guachala.

Day 10: Return to hut and prepare for the climb.

Day 11: After an early morning departure, we will climb up the crevassed slopes of the glacier. After 9 to 10 hours we will come to the summit of Cayambe at 18,997 feet. We then descend to Hacienda Guachala for the night.

Day 12: Fly home for “course only” participants.

For those participating in the Cotopaxi and Chimborazo Extension:

Day 12: Today we will take the scenic drive to Cotopaxi National Park, overnight.

Day 13: After driving to approximately 15,092 feet we take a short 45-minute hike to Jose Ribas’ hut where we rest and prepare for our climb.

Day 14: Summit Cotopaxi. We will depart at 1 a.m. and hike up the scree slopes until we arrive at the glacier. From here we ascend snow and ice, arriving at a steep section just below the crater rim. After ascending this short section, we arrive at the summit where we can peer into the mountain’s crater or enjoy the view of the countryside and Chimborazo, our final objective. We spend the night at the beautiful Hacienda La Cienega.

Day 15: Fly Home, or: travel to Urbina where we rest and enjoy a relaxing dinner. B, L

Day 16: Hike to the upper hut. Rest and prepare for summit attempt.

Day 17: Climb Chimborazo. Leaving at midnight we will hike up the scree slopes until reaching the glacier. After a couple of steep sections on the glacier, we will arrive at the false summit. From there it is about an hour climb to the highest point in Ecuador. After enjoying the views, we descend to the hut for the night.

Day 18: Extra day for ascent.

Days 19: Fly home.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.

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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in Quito, trekking in the humidity and heat, and to protect you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this trek and are the minimum required for this trip. You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list

The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!

The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.

Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.

Mountain Madness guides and staff swears by Patagonia gear and we know that you will too. Besides having a strong commitment to the environment, Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia. Find out what makes them "committed to the core."

Another company that we believe follows our two simple tenets (lightweight and functional) is Outdoor Research. Founded in the NW, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check Our Links page for a direct link.

Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.

We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle. They will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit www.featheredfriends.com

For a detailed equipment list for this trip, feel free to call our office at 800-328-5925.

Testimonials

"I had the time of my life in Ecuador. I highly recommend it to every aspiring climber. ...This is a letter to praise your guide Oswaldo Freire and his wife Amber. They are superb. On the mountain Ossy’s main focus is on the group’s safety. He tries to make sure that everyone is enjoying the climb. Finally, he does his best to help everyone reach the summit. In Quito and in the valleys, Oswaldo and Amber work as a team. They make the trip a cultural exchange where clients learn about the history and traditions of Ecuador. Their focus is the client’s contentment and comfort. They have successfully combined the attitude that they will do whatever it takes and the Ecuadorian attitude of, “I am here to serve you.” I thoroughly enjoyed my experience in Ecuador. For 15 years I have had a goal to climb Cotopaxi. I would not have achieved it without Ossy’s help."
- Chris Z.

"Alejo is a very engaging and fun person. Very observant and concerned with our health and well being as with high altitude. Great cook and eating coach too. We felt like family at the end of the trip! ...The whole trip was very enjoyable. Beautiful country, great places to stay, great group experience, wonderful guides." - Regina K.

"This trip should be prompted as an Ecuador Volcanoes and Haciendas tour. The haciendas were a very pleasant and unique aspect of this trip that would be very appealing to a broad spectrum of clients. They are beautiful, comfortable, and elegant comparable to an old southern plantation. Sure beats huddling in an tent at 18,000ft!"
- Jim W.

"As a first time mountain climber and international traveler I didn't know what to expect. The trip exceeded my expectations in every aspect - the guides, the people, the food, the accommodations, the culture and luckily the weather. A truly memorable experience and one I will look back on for years to come." - Ryan O. 

"A trip of a lifetime" - hope to do more like this one! Guided by excellent guides, full of cultural experience, nice time in between exciting climbs to see the country. We summited two very challenging peaks - Cayambe and Chimborazo. I felt comfortable and safe with Alejo; he was always there for all his clients. Excellent cook to boot, delicious meals well prepared. Knowledgable about his country, the mountains and mountaineering! ...Geoff is a great mountain guide, very knowledgeable, good teacher and eager to share his knowledge.We'll be back for more! Thanks" - Matthias S.

"I would like to thank Mountain Madness for a truly memorable trip. The trip exceeded my expectations in every way. Since I was focused on the climbs beforehand I didn't realize there were going to be so many cultural experiences, the haciendas, great food, and great people. Those unexpected experiences made the climbing almost seem secondary. Ossy did an incredible job as the lead guide. It was great having a local guide who had so much knowledge of the mountains, people and the culture. Ossy truly bent over backwards to do whatever he could do to make it the best possible experience, he was truly top notch. There were a number of other groups from different countries down there but none of them were as well run or organized as Mountain Madness. For future climbing trips I will definitely be looking to Mountain Madness to make them happen. Thanks again"
- Ryan O

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