2010 Dates (13 & 18 days):

May 20-June 1
May 20-June 6 / with Illimani

July 10-22
July 10-27 / with Illimani

Land Cost:
$3,275 (with 3 or more students)

With Illimani:
$3,995 (with 3 or more students)

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“I was on your Bolivia trip and just wanted to say that it was an amazing experience. The trip delivered the high level of quality I expected and your guides were highly competent and very personable guides. It was a bonus to be on a rope team with your local guide Carlos and contributed to building my confidence and skills on the mountains as this was my first high altitude experience. I would definitely book with you again and look forward to the next trip.” Ryan Oehm, Bolivia School

The Cordillera Real, the Royal Range, offers some of the finest mountaineering objectives in the Andes of South America, and is set amidst a fascinating cultural backdrop. For those with limited experience, this trip combines abundant learning opportunities with practical application of skills on two high altitude peaks. This popular course is designed for individuals aspiring to learn the fundamental skills of snow and ice climbing and glacier travel. Our goal is to develop self-reliant alpine climbers. With the comprehensive curriculum and some hands on expedition climbing this trip is one of our most rewarding South American adventures.

With newly acquired skills, course participants will focus their attention on three climbing objectives. We will acclimatize on glaciated Tarija before moving onto our main goals of 19,968 foot Huayna Potosi and 21,193 foot Illimani. Our route up Huayna Potosi, considered by many the most beautiful peak in Bolivia, takes us up easy to moderate glacier slopes with one section of 50-degree snow/ice before reaching the knife-edged summit ridge. Once there spectacular, exposed climbing leads to the airy summit. For those participating on the Illimani extension they will be challenged with moderate snow and ice slopes to the summit of one of South America’s most sought after mountaineering objectives.

Course Curriculum Includes:

• Snow climbing, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
• Self arrest techniques
• Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
• Ice climbing and crampon techniques
• Prussiking and team crevasse rescue practice
• Rappelling and rope management
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
• Navigation using maps, altimeters, and compasses
• Roped glacier travel and route finding through crevassed areas
• Mountain weather
• Alpine ecology
• Hazard assessment
• Leave No Trace: Outdoor Ethics
• High altitude physiology

Included in Cost: scheduled hotel nights, park and museum entrance fees, food while on the mountains, group climbing gear, and cooking gear.

Not Included in Cost: restaurant meals while in town, airfare, personal equipment, or items of a personal nature (phone calls, laundry, etc.) or staff/guide gratuities

Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. Meals provided are listed as b,l, and d at the end of each day. You will be responsible for those meals not listed. All meals in the mountains will be provided. Porters will be provided on those days listed in the itinerary.

Note: Mountain Madness services begin on day 2 of the below itinerary. If you arrive on day 1 we can assist you in making hotel arrangements at an additional cost.

Day 1-2: Depart from home in the evening and arrive the next morning in La Paz , the highest capital in the world at 12,000 feet. We have the rest of day two to explore the Mercado de Hechiceria (the witches market) or just enjoy the colonial ambiance of this interesting city. D

Day 3: To further acclimatize, we will visit the mysterious Tiwanaku ruins. One of Bolivia’s most significant archeological sites, Tiwanaku is an excellent example of pre-Inca culture. We’re then off to visit Lake Titicaca where we overnight in the lakeside town of Copacabana. BLD

Day 4: After exploring the Island of the Sun and its Inca ruins, and enjoying the impressive views of the Cordillera Real, we return to Copacabana for the night. BLD

Day 5: Following an early breakfast we drive to the small village of Tuni and prepare pack animals for the trek into our basecamp for the next few days. In the afternoon we will practice tying knots, work with a map and compass and address other lecture materials. We will overnight here for the next four nights. B

Day 6: We hike to the glacier and begin learning snow climbing techniques. Proper use of the ice axe, traveling in balance, self belay, and self arrest will be covered. The afternoon is dedicated to teaching students the essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, knots, spacing of climbers, and rope management. We will also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue.

Day 7: An introduction to rappelling and steep snow and ice climbing will be presented with an emphasis on French, German, and American hybrid styles of crampon techniques. Finally, every student will learn and practice self-crevasse rescue (prussiking).

Day 8: Our main focus for today is crevasse rescue. Students will get more practice placing pieces of snow protection and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create a “bomber” anchor. Students will learn the foundation for crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move to more advanced pulley systems. A multitude of scenarios will be addressed. Day 8 will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards. An ascent of Tarija may be part of the course today or on one of the previous 2 days.

Day 9: Today we discuss any follow up topics from the course and prepare to return to the trailhead in Tuni. Our drivers will meet us with vehicles and take us to the Mountain Hut at Zongo Pass for the night.

Day 10: Move to the Moraine Camp or Camp Argentina for our climb of Huayna Potosi. Porter support to high camp and return on day 11.

Day 11: We depart early in order to reach the summit of Huayna Potosi and encounter a variety of terrain on our way to the summit. This will be a challenging day of 10-14 hours roundtrip to the summit and return to the hut. From the summit we will be rewarded with beautiful views of Lake Titicaca, the Amazon Basin, and the Cordillera Real. Return to the hut.

Day 12: Today will be an extra day for weather or rest that can be worked into the schedule for Huayna Potosi at the guides' discretion. We will drive to La Paz at some point today, either early for a rest day or as soon as we descend from the summit.

Day 13: School only participants fly home. Rest day for those continuing to Illimani.

ILLIMANI EXTENSION:

Day 14: Participants of the Illimani extension depart for the final objective  21,193 foot Nevado Illimani. A scenic drive through the countryside of Bolivia ends at the small village of Hacienda Una. Here we load our burros for the trek to basecamp. The four-hour walk to basecamp leads through small farming villages and alpine meadows.

Day 15: Today we accomplish a strenuous climb up a rocky ridge to high camp, known as the Condor’s Nest. We establish camp and get some well-deserved rest to prepare for the summit.

Day 16: Summit day entails an early departure in order to climb Pico Sur, the highest of Illimani’s three summits. Interesting glacier travel along varied terrain leads us to the summit of this impressive peak. This is a long day of 12-15 hours roundtrip. After enjoying the views from the summit we descend to high camp, or if time permits to basecamp.

Day 17: We sleep in and enjoy a leisurely breakfast before we break camp and hike out to Hacienda Una. In the afternoon we drive to La Paz for our celebration dinner.

June 18: We return home.

NOTE ON ITINERARY
Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

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Qualifications: We suggest that you have some backpacking experience prior to joining us on this expedition. Participants are expected to be in excellent physical condition. With your heart, lungs and legs in top condition you will be able to focus more on learning and your enjoyment of the mountain environment.

Training Program: This trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. Most importantly though try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain.

Weather: Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically has the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.

Food: Mountain Madness is renowned for providing the finest available mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trailhead and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated, and fresh foods. Bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats.

Trip Cancellation Insurance: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses, and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.

Questions: Call our office at 1-800-328-5925 or email us if you have more specific questions about the trip. back

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